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Power brake?

The lesson here is don't mess with hubs or studs unless you really have too. Why are you replacing yours?

Are these four piston Bendix ?

I don't recommend it, but if you are good, you can drive it with e-brake only.

Ad must indicate if for disc/drum.

If needed, I recommend rebuilding your old calipers. Usually, anyone associated with this website would be a good place to start.

I would soak it in my blast cabinet.

This is a roll pin. It is spring loaded in the hole. It does not move. It is common for the factory/people to not install it flush.

The bellows needs a small bracket to attach it to the back of the MC. With all that corrosion, you need to replace that MC.

High performance pads= lots of brake dust.

Nothing should vibrate. Make sure your M/C is for disc/disc.

Good chance that the safety switch in the distribution block has been tripped allowing front brakes but blocking the rears. Plunger must be re-centered to bleed.

Call them.

Four wheel drums have no proportioning valve.

You are missing the oval retaining washer at the top anchor. The self adjuster cable attaches to the anchor first, then the two large springs, not spring, cable and spring.

This has been apart before- only one gasket is needed. Does your new M/C have the pushrod already installed? Do you know how to switch them?

Disassemble to thoroughly clean. Lightly hone and install a M/C kit to keep it original. Now bench bleed. Bleed entire system until fluid runs clear at the wheel cylinders. As the brakes already cannot stop the car, all four need to be inspected and adjusted.

Why remove the drums? If not swedged, drive drum off from the rear. Make sure you have the replacement drums before you start.

M/C.

Just found a new tool! Someone makes a flare "dresser". It is a kit looking somewhat like a flaring tool, only the "cone" part of the tool is a diamond cutter and is used to dress the inside flare. Shop bought it to dress the inside flare on SS lines. If needed, I will get more info.

Booster or M/C are suspect.

Most Mopars have have a brake switch that runs off the swing pedal. The switch has a small bracket attaching it to the column support that also makes it adjustable. It hurts my back too.

Gravity bleed sometimes doesn't work. Move on to the old way.

If you can remove some of the swedge it will go easier with less stress on the stud.

You will be converting to a dual brake system with this kit so you will be needing a distribution block and new lines that are not included in this kit. I only assume that the M/C will bolt up to your pedal with the provided adjustable rod. You will need at least 14" wheels.

A vacuum booster will have a large hose attached to full manifold vacuum. You will need at least 10 inches of vacuum.

Pull the wire off the switch at the block. Does it still act the same? If not, then your problem is elsewhere.

Have you removed the pistons yet? Sometimes the bores are so bad that they need sleeving. In that case it would be better to let a professional do the whole thing.

I believe that is normal. Brake shoes have springs to return them but caliper pistons don't. Piston "return" is a function of piston design, rotor runout and lack of residual check valve. We used to estimate that it took 10mph to return the pistons. Until that , there will be some drag.

Just that one.