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these are speedmaster heads (pro comp) and came with the studs, nuts and washers.I don't really care for the 12 point nuts -they seem really tall to me. I think I am going to just replace the nuts with regular grade 8 nuts

I have a kwik question about my small block. Iam putting new aluminum heads on my 360. The heads have extra thick deck surface (5/8 for angle milling) so I needed longer than normal bolts (actually studs) I installed the studs (just till they bottomed out) and Torqued the heads to 75#.Now...

could also be a sticky valve

No every time I had a block boiled out there was very little of the paint left and as far as the cam bearings go, I have seen them slightly off which is ok but to barely line up is not take it back

I use the black rubber fel-pro too and they are reusable with a little care

I just recently switched over to Valvoline VR - 1 10-30 racing oil for the zinc up until then I was using a zinc supplement but unfortunately they quit selling it. I would prefer using a supplement and going back to Castrol GTX oil.

they also make what they call a "head saver" it is a thin steel shim. It comes with 2 headgaskets to sandwich the shim. Talk to your machinist he should know about them. I had to use them once when my heads got shaved too much -- worked fine

I'm wondering where you found $1500 headers

OR sUMMIT OR jEGS

not without pulling them but there are 2 lengths ... seems to me one was 1 1/2 " and one was 1" or 1 1/4"

I've had proforms on my cuda for 4 years now without a problem. I'm running .550 lift and stiff Lunati springs and I rap it out to 6-7000 rpm all the time. Cheap doesn't always mean bad just my 2 cents worth also I have had other proform stuff that sux like 2 rev limiters that were junk brand new

roades bleed down at idle and low RPM and then pump up with RPM I used to have a set and hated them plus they beat the hell out of my valve train

a few years ago one of the car magazines showed how to make one using a shop vac and some tubing. I can't remember which one but when they tested it against a super flow it was damned close. If you locate the article or another DIY let me know

I agree might as well use those gears while you have them

WELCOME to the world of Mopar! It is always the last car anyone builds parts for. Until recently you couldn't find anything for a mopar. If you locate a single carb tunnel ram please let me know too!

I like the thick fiberboard gaskets myself. I glue them to the valve covers and treat the head side with just a tad of form-a-gasket evenly but sparingly applied

it fit with mine and I would say yes it should have one if nothing else to keep oil from flooding the seal and seeping past

biggest problem is almost all electric pumps are noisy

you didn't say if is auto or stick ....could be neutral safety switch or starter relay

you should be fine- I am using the same pistons (zero decked) and head gasket and a very similar voodoo cam (.552/.533 - 284*/292*) with no problems at all and I wind it 7-8000 rpm all the time

360 block .030 over- zero deck on KB 107 pistons- cat rods - J heads ported and polished 2.02/1.60 valves - proform roller rockers 1.5 intake 1.6 exhaust -Hedman headers- Lunati cam 284/292- Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .533/.552--LSA/ICL: 110/106 -Lunati springs- edelbrock TM 5 intake ports matched...

A little more about the running bad also. Is it coughing or backfireing? also make sure the choke (if you have one) isn't shutting and opening on you. As a rule of thumb...black smoke is fuel blue smoke is oil white smoke is coolant and green smoke is : your burning money :angryfir:

The Wall has it right. With the later heads you have the POTENIAL to make more HP but without changing some things you could actually loose some HP. Without optimizing your cam specs, compression, fuel (basically your VE) you could loose power with too much air flow

It doesn't need to be dropped on #6 as long as you tdc the motor b4 you drop it in that has been my point all alongwith the dots together I don't care if its firing on #3 by the time you get the damper on it you have moved the crank enuff you need to tdc the motor anyway

Hold on guys I think we got off on the wrong foot and started a pissing contest ....LOL the original question was that he had end play in his cam but he has the gears right according to Ma Mopar . At that point (marks at 6 cam &12 crank )it doesn't matter what cylinder is firing or not . Once...

Thats what i say too

\ I stand by my original post Now this is going to get fun! ....LOL

OK maybe I got too close to the mushroom patch again but I 'd swear that was how I set up my cam last month Gentlemen I just went out to the shop- and got my Chrysler shop manual and checked the small block timing marks and it show it just as I said....NOW who has been in the mushroom...

I couldn't find a cam with that number either But the paint usually means it has passed some sort of quality inspection ....maybe yellow for journal size and orange for straightness or anything you want

What the hell type of cams are you guys running? I have always set the crank straight up (12) and the cam gear straight down (6) and drop my distrib in pointing a #1 and it always fires right up and runs great.