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I hesitated when asking this question. It seems whenever an opinion is wanted it turns into a war of words.As far as experience goes I have been building engines since the late 60's, both import and domestics. With that said, even I don't know 1/2 of what I would like to know and there is room...

I have been cleaning out my garage and storage sheds and pitching just about everything but mopar parts. I came across a complete 69 383 out of a roadrunner and a complete 74 440 out of a ????. The 383 looks like it had a million miles on it. But the 440 looks like it was just rebuilt...

I idea is to heat the manifold quickly especially in cold weather help cold drivability - in hot weather it just heats the manifold and incoming charge which robs HP. Mine is blocked off but I never drive it once the temp gets down to 40* and colder

Normally I would say before the valve job incase your grinder runs amuk but in your case I would get the seats cut then do the grinding then take it back to get the seats ground

I have seen intake gaskets without the cutouts in them but I just use a piece of aluminum flashing like you would on your roof , cut it to block off passage and glue to head. put the gasket over them and torque them down. I have used this for years without any problem or burn thru

I have taken .060 off my J heads BUT you will run into mating problems with the front and rear seals and the intake. You can safely take off .030 without any real problems as long as you use good gaskets- but it won't raise the compression much -maybe .3 to .5 points. As for finding out if they...

yep they say you add 1 hp for every 10 pounds you loose

might be a problem with a radical cam. My cam isn't that radical. I use a Lunati cam with 284*/292* and only .533/.552 lift and springs with only 330# of open pressure. But so far no probs. But I agree most people run roller rockers when they don't need too.

I use them for almost a year now with out a problem except one adjuster backed itself off (my fault not the rockers) with out any damage and I twist my motor past 7 grand all the time.

my rule book says to the cross bar so thats where it will go ...any one have any pictures of theirs so I can get an idea of where to put my tabs...like above the bar or below or somewhere in between...LOL

no tabs came with mine (from competition engineering )

I just finished installing my rollcage and the rule book says the shoulder belts should be attached to the crossbar. This seems to be a rather poor place to anchor the shoulder straps to. Does anyone have pics of their harness attach points?

On my old 360 I used to shift it at 6200 rpm (stock valve springs on a medium hot cam) and on several occaisions I went higher (no need to go higher as performance dropped off after 6000 rpm). I did this for several years with out one failure of any kind.Also by accident I took it past 7000 rpm...

I agree with dodge freak on the need for floaters as I have had some locks come loose before but I wouldn't go out of my way to dump them to go for the pressed fit either ...use what you have either way

i'd run the J heads too (I do in fact ) but it isnt that much$ $ to drop a set of 2.02 valves into them either. Infact you don't even need to replace the seats - a good machinist can back cut the 1.88 seats to open them up for the 2.02 valves. My j heads happened to be the factory 2.02 version...

Reguardless of which crank you go with I would have it cryogenically tempered if you really want it to last

No only wanting to know the max lift and duration that can be used in a stone stock motor

I agree with ya Adam , I think the victor is king right now. I run a Edelbrock TM5 and I'm real happy with it BUT if I were to change I* would be going with the victor too

If you dont hi-way drive the car I would go with a set of 4:30 gears and 26 inch tall tires...if that seems to be too deep of gears you can adjust with taller tires

a buddy wants to know what the absolute maximum on cam specs for a stone stock 360 is ...I dont have any idea but I am guessing somewhere around 285 to 295 duration and about 450 lift ...anyone know for sure ?

I'm running a Sig Erson cam 302* 312* .530/.550 lift 108* and its a midrange monster, lopey as hell but very streetable Also checking out a custom Racer Brown grind with slightly less duration dual pattern cam

I think .535 to .550 is considered the max safe on a stock head

is it bogging about 30 foot off the line? what gears you running? can you launch any higher rpm?

i agree with raymond ... if it wasnt doing it b4 the oil change then most likely you drowned the valve stem seals and it was just sucking oil down the guides drive it a bit and see if it dont clear up

I'm running stock 360 rods that my machinist sized and trued, I deburred them then cryogenic tempered them myself with a set of ARP bolts that I also cryo tempered my self and havent had any problem and I go over 7000 just going to the gas station! I've had these in for 10-12 years now with out...

I thought this months Mopar muscle had a 400hp 318 build up using off the shelf parts and no special work on it ...i'll check

all things right I'd guess 12.4 to 12.7 with the juice 11.8 to 12.1 but just a guess

ebay has lots of them for 160 - 250 bucks also will the eddy heads take the small block chebbie roller rockers?

I have headman hedder too and the milodon pan and once they are in its fine but to put the pan on (in the car) you are going to have to loosen up the passenger side header -install the pan then tighten up the header again ALSO if you have a scattersheild with a block plate you are going to have...

forget the oil bit (thats for accurate torque) loc tite the suckers and dont worry about them