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If I remember right 1 and 6- 2 and 5 - 3 and 4 run together. On inline 4 and 6 and straight 8s are this way and I used the system of when rockers on 6 are both rocking(exhaust closing -intake just opening) set both valves on #1 follow the firing order for next cylinder and so on. As for adding...

check the points and condensor ... sounds like a loose condensor

here is my 2 cents worth I always re torque my heads because of bolt stretch due to abuse and heat/cool cycles, and the fact that I am not using torque to yield bolts . Those are the ones that you pull down to 50 # then tighten another 180 degrees. the bolt stretch is figured in on these...

The right way to do it is to remove all the plugs and prop the throttle wide open' Then screw your tester in and crank it over. It doesn't matter if you give it 4 cranks or 6 as long as you do it the same for all cylinders. What you want to watch is that the first jump of the needle should give...

what did you make your mold out of? almost looks like clay ...if so your way talented

LOOKS ALOT LIKE THE ONE i HAD ON MY 60 VALIANT/LANCER

a little more info....cast or tin covers? etc. I always use gaskets rtv or silicone just don't do it for me

a little more info....cast or tin covers? etc.

I was gonna say a left hand drill bit and if that don't do it an e-z out you probably will need to use a right angle drill to get in there straight if any is sticking up above the block cut a groove in it with a dremel and use a screwdriver and back it out

IMO I would go a little deeper on the gears, and the reason I say this is that in 1970 I bought a 440 -6 cuda with auto and 2.76 gears and hated driving it in town(what a pig )but out on the interstate nothing could touch it (not the hi-way patrol or anyone else) and because I had to put my foot...

Also if it spun a rod bearing you need to replace the rod too! or at least have it reconditioned

for what motor?