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Your steering column shaft is too long to bolt up to power steering. People do change out the shaft. The linkage on the 75 goes through the K frame where the 69 doesn't. I know you can change the K frame to the 75 style and the linkage will fit. The thing I don't know is if the splines on the 75...

I have heard this before. I am wondering if it has something to do with the fact that you used B-body parts?

Picture of bushing install below.

Here is a very good detailed write up about the swap that might help you. A Body Disc Brake Swap 101 Ordering K7103 only has the bushings to do one upper control arm so you have to order two packages. Also you can use this code for a 5% discount at Rock Auto so that will help you out...

First thing is, does your car have a factory sway bar? If so the spindles and calipers need to be switched side to side. The ball joints stay in their current position. You turning radius could be how your tie rods ends are adjusted. You tilt forward is caused by the adjustment of your upper...

Poor quality of master cylinder? Have you converted the car to a dual chamber master cylinder? They are much safer than the old single cup master cylinders are.

In addition to the above suggestions you might have a brake hose that is breaking down on the inside.

Here is one that is for universal applications. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BHH0/H13362/N0265.oap?ck=Search_N0265_5153798_-1&categoryRedirect=N0265&pt=N0265&ppt=C0064

This is one of them that is used on Mopars but I have no idea as to what you actual car you are working on to know if it might be correct. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BHH0/H13382/N0265.oap?ck=Search_N0265_1432185_-1&pt=N0265&ppt=C0064

Did you miss this part in my first post? "There was never 11" brakes used on our A-bodies from MaMopar." As I said the seller stated that it fit 10" or 11" so I wouldn't make an assumption until I knew the facts of what the seller had sent. I make it a practice to know the facts before saying...

The above would be true "IF" the seller sold you spindles for a 1972 back A-body but the seller sold you something that he said also used 11" brakes so I won't go out on a limb and say what you have until I can say with certainty. Hemi71x is a brake guru and I have learned a bunch from him and...

A lot of members are using the new style master cylinders that have the aluminum housings. Maybe someone will weigh in with the application. The advantage with something modern is that it will be in stock should you need to replace it in the future.

Pictures will help us help you since they are easily identified. There was never 11" brakes used on our A-bodies from MaMopar.

Drum being worn past its limit might be your answer if everything else is together correctly.

Agreed, you need to tear it down and see what happened.

It is probably because they are seeing "Rear Right" and "Rear Left" but aren't paying attention to where it says "Quaintly Per Vehicle 1". This hose fits multiple vehicles and may mount in opposite locations depending on the vehicle.

Here is how you measure your bolt pattern.

As you have found, 10 sbp rear drums are extinct and no longer manufactured so you just have to hunt until you find some. None of the chain stores have any and haven't had for a long time. Try eBay as suggested and anyplace else you can think of.

Lol, that was funny.:banghead: Too early in the morning. I always use Inline Tube myself.

I don't recall ever swapping push rods on any conversion I did. If for some reason you had to, just buy an adjustable push rod. You are making this a whole lot more complicated than it is. You can buy a proportioning valve with the lines from hemi71x. I consider the hard lines the biggest...

You can order the correct brake lines that are prebent for your car through www.inlinetube.com or http://www.finelinesinc.com/. Both of them make a nice product and the cost isn't excessive. You can also get the lines in stainless steel.

I don't recall there ever being 9" drums used on an 8 1/4.

In doing this conversion I have only had to do the following as far as parts go. Switch out the spindle and brake assemblies. Install the disc brake proportioning valve. Change out the master cylinder for appropriate disc brake master cylinder. Install new rubber brake lines. Swap out steel...

Glad to toss out an idea that worked for you. As I have gotten older, I find myself having to double check everything just to make sure I did it.

Are your brake shoes adjusted correctly?

Right now you are in luck www.rockauto.crom has Wagner drums in stock for your car for $24.79 for the front and $20.79 for the rear. Brake shoes are on closeout for $5.37 per axle and the wheel cylinders are cheap too. There should also be a 5% discount code floating around too so you can save...

Do you have 9" or 10" drums? Don't fall for the 10" bbp redrilled drums saga. They do not center on the hub register, ride uneven on the wheel studs and are 3/4 wider. Some member made a special ring to make the drum fit the register correctly.

Thank you for confirming what I was recalling about the backing plates. I was just going to look up the correct information on that and post it to this thread.

Here is a thread that gives the real world numbers on the backing plate measurements. "35/64 or 0.5468 of an inch" http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=284979 The second issue is going to be the hub is way too small "if it was manufactured to the OEM size" to use with the...

It doesn't. Another member went through this recently with sbp Cragers.