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Checking for "stuff" inside and the bearings is always a good thing. One of the big pluses with the Magnum is usually the lack of bore wear. I'm not a educated Magnum guy, but word is the stock heads can be prone to cracks after some miles. I want some others more familiar with them to...

Engines like this are always a "crap shoot". First off, just make sure you only pay a modest amount for it. After that, yes I'd crack it open to make sure what you really bought and the condition? On deals like this, I always planned on the worst...and paid accordingly.

Look for numbers "stamped", not cast on the front of the block just below the drivers side cyl. head & also just above the oil pan rail on the passenger side. They would be on machined areas and may need to be cleaned well to see clearly.

That's the firing order for the ignition/plugs, by cylinder.

Not quite sure where to start young man? But put your current parts list on hold for right now..... First off, that's not a "Magnum" engine. Looks more like a 70's/80's 360 LA engine to me, although it may be a 318 with a Thermoquad intake? You need to find out if it's even usable first, and...

Sac would certainly be one of the best climates to run one. It really comes down to the intended use? I've been around, and tuned several dual carb street cars.....some worked ok, some would give me a complete headache :banghead:. The main difference in my opinion was cam selection. That...

What a nice build J.rob. Super nice torque curve & that power with a 213* cam is sweet. :thumbrig:

I never had a problem with lead. Although I never ate paint chips as a child...lol. I used to mix leaded gas with the "mandatory" unleaded at the pump as long as it was available...early 80's if I recall. I attribute the modern bore wear mainly to the port injection systems. Good metal...

No! Flat tappet cam lobes are tapered, offset, or both. That's to promote lifter rotation for wear purposes. The roller lifter need to ride on a straight flat lobe. The pressure applied by a tapered lobe would tear apart a roller setup fairly quick.

x2...

394lbs......it's a misprint. Nice work Jim :thumbrig:. I assume in the final configuration that there may be a modest jump in torque and a little less Hp? That's a real nice engine for that truck. I owned a 94' and swore it was heavier then it was supposed to be.....at least it drove that...

I just rounded off the stall speed at "3k or so". I've personally never used a converter from today's popular builders, but the overwhelming consensus seems to be that the high quality units built today are highly streetable. And with the fact that you've already got the 3.55's in it, i believe...

Hi Steve. For what your looking to do and if the engine is tight and runs well as is, i'd look to adding the headers/exhaust first, and then go to a streetable torque converter with a 3000 or so stall speed. Assuming you have a fairly low compression build, that should pick it up quite a bit for...

Air, or even a piece of rope fed thru the spark plug hole pushed up with the piston, will keep the valve from dropping. Main problem I see is you need a spring compressor that works on the top side only.

As much as I know they flow decent, and my buddy "bomber" likes them :D:D:D, i just can't get over the visual of that intake. I'm really just having some fun here, LOL.....They look nice and i'm sure they will work out well for you. :thumbrig: I hope to use Mag's somewhere in the future myself.

Just a quick glance, looks like a super streetable combo. That cam is mild enough that you wont need a lot of converter. 2500/2800 stall should be plenty, imo. Just curious about your thoughts on the heads......are you starting off with just a shortblock? If you have the longblock, are the heads...

If it's already buttoned up, i'd let it eat for now.