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Sure looks like a caliper mounting issue to me also. As said above. Could this be a left/right issue? I have never a swap like this before.

Not sure about the ssbc's, but most inner bearings float between the race & seal when removed from the spindle...

I tried a few cans years back with mixed results. If your vacuum is really low & you can't live without the power brakes, then yes it will help to some extent. If your in the 9-11" vacuum range, your driving style will make as much difference as a storage can. Any engine will build decent...

Yep...^^^. It's really nothing but a Tee fitting to send the fluid to each side. As long as it's not rusted or overly corroded, you're good. As far as the rubber line that attaches to it.....If it's still flexible and not "hard" it can be reused. But with that said, that hose probably will only...

I agree with the others, but looking at the condition of the surrounding area, i have to think this is a resto project, or your removing it from a parts car for another project. Not sure of the pricing and availability, but i'd probably just replace it if possible.

It sounds to me like your advance curve is starting a little too early. One way to check, with a assistant, would be to throw a light on it out of gear, then check it again in gear. If it drops, then you may have to add a stiffer spring to allow the mechanical advance to start after the 1200...

That's a huge drop. I know you are running pretty stout initial timing, but is there a chance that idling out of gear that your rpm is high enough to be into the curve already? Then once it drops a few hundred in gear, that it's retarding the timing some? Hope this makes sense...:D.

I understand Tom, it's kind of a learning curve operating a performance car. The only advise I could give with the current setup would be to teach them to rev the engine, in neutral, a few times while moving it to build a little vacuum. The few PB cars i personally owned had a check valve at the...

How low is your vacuum? I believe your cam is not overly radical? I ran PB's down to 9"s of idle vacuum before on limited use cars. With deceleration, it would build enough vac to stop decently. The only issue I had was with stop and go traffic, or repeated pumping of the pedal. I will admit...

If you're not losing fluid anywhere, I think i'd look here first. ^^^^^^

I know there's a torque spec that you can use, and then back of a certain amount? I honestly learned by feel. Snug up the nut while rotating the wheel and then back it off enough to allow a small amount of clearance. Sorry I can't give you a specific number, it's just the way I've always done it.

This just came up here if it would help you out.......... http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=207409

Wonder if the avatar has anything to do with it :D.

Wow Jim, those are some cool tools. I used to turn the piston side down on the bench and try to get both to pop. Wish i had stuff like that to use:D.

Have you tried a blowgun in the fluid port with your compressor jacked up as high as it will go? If that doesn't work maybe some others have a better solution. When they were unused for a long time and corroded bad i just replaced them.

Yes Dot 3 and be careful how long it's been "laying around". That stuff is a magnet for moisture. Might want to look into a fresh bottle or two when you go to fill and bleed. Hey it's your brakes we're talking about. Then after that's done you have to figure out where the old fluid went, as in leak.

I agree with everyone else, the booster is shot. If your gonna continue to run a cam that has 10-11" or less of vacuum when properly tuned you might want to consider doing away with the vacuum assist. If you want to keep it power you can always add a canister that stores vacuum when you...

That's good. At least there are some good suggestions posted for you to check. Good luck and if something else comes to mind i'll chime in, Rick P.S. Thanks for the pics, they were really helpful.

That arm behind should be the emergency brake lever. Could be a issue if not correct. The before pic looks just right to me.

Have you checked this? These are not a exact photo, but..... Sorry, this post was late.

Looks correct for that application........GM's use a small spring that way though.

Hard to tell in the 1st or last picture, but is the strut bar properly engaged on the rear shoe?

I hate to make brake recommedations, mainly because it's not my a** on the line:). twofosho may be on to something though as far as rendering the factory prop. valve inoperative as to not interfere with a seperate adjustable valve. IIRC a friend with a fox body drag car had a similar issue with...

Most disk/drum cars from the 60s and 70s will lock the rears first, actully a better alternative then the fronts first. Shocks can also play a roll in braking if your getting to much front end dive under hard stops, which lightens the rear.

I think you may be right to look toward the rear end as being the noise, R&P. A roaring sound that increases with speed doesn't sound like any brake noise i've heard. Wheel bearings also come to mind, but your fronts are new so could be a axle bearing. I'll let another member speak to the...