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lol. Tend to agree, but if you already have it, and really want one, maybe...

I hear where you're coming from, it looks like we're in for 95/100 degree temps for at least another week :banghead:. I personally would not pull the stat with the scenario you wrote about. You actually have pretty normal temps for a standard cooling system. As long as you're running close to...

I wouldn't call Brandon a troll, I think he has some good points...Especially if Jay would rather go without "turbo" boost. Jay, do you want to run some big times, or do you want to bracket race & be competitive? The car is just a tool to get you where you want to go? While boost/Nos can turn...

I agree with Tony...^^^^^. Since this is in the Slant 6 Forum, keep in mind you'll need a trans also. Do some searching around here. A lot of threads will be helpful for the swap. Good Luck, and enjoy the new found power/torque. :D

The fact that it runs decent and has no noise is a good sign as far as the low end, bearings and such. I have no experience with the flat head engines, but it sure sounds like a rebuild is in your future. I'd have to think that enough oil to bleed past the plugs means that the rings have...

Very cool. :cheers: Nice 60' and close to 100mph on the second run......sweet. :thumleft:

When "bomber" says find peak vacuum, he's speaking of setting the idle mixture screw.........After that, lower the idle speed screw to a acceptable level. Let us know how it goes.

A high idle can cause it also. I don't know if it's possible to have manifold vacuum to the distributor vacuum advance on a slant, i'm not familiar enough with them, but that can add to it. You can always shut it off in gear. I've had a few built up high idle cars that I had to do that way.

Fantastic. One less pain in the butt......well, for a year anyway....lol.

Good point. I don't think the few 360 cars built had cats in 75', but /6 & 318 cars may have had them?

I guess most states will get in our wallets some how. Once Jeb got rid of emissions if FL, i had smooth sailing my last 14/15 yrs there. 5yrs in central VA had yearly safety only and personal property tax.....still sucked :D. Now in SC, no smog, no safety, but still PP tax. I'm happy with it...

The last few hotrod's i tuned to get thru Md. emissions in the mid 80's, higher idle and a lot of timing retard was needed, as was said above. Leaning too much made it worse. I know it's probably apples and oranges as far as the required numbers, but the worse they ran the better.....lol.

That sucks. The journal still looks good (no Heat). The twist has me baffled, but sometimes when **** goes bad, it goes bad big. I see the pin, what happened to the piston? I know your po'ed, but please rethink the non-Mopar swap, the're not all bad.

I like that E-85 idea kkeith :thumleft:. More compression, more torque, better 60ft times.

I'm not up on slant buildup's, but from a numbers standpoint, it looks like a very well put together combo would need about 250/260hp @ 2800 lbs wet with driver to break under the 13.0 mark. A more streetable combo of converter and gearing would require a little more & a lighter weight would...

I'd look here first ^^^^^^.

My first thought was coil, but a carb/vacuum issue can't be ruled out at this point.

Yep. But for additional adjustment. I like the soaking idea.

Take out the 4.88 gears and the 500 lbs. of stuff out of the trunk. Just kidding:D. You say you got it back on the road. If it set for quite a while you might check the brake system for any drag that could've developed. Tires inflated enough? Timing/advance as stated above? I agree 13 mpg with...

If that's a northeast car, it's in really good shape. Top looks good. I can see it as a good daily driver in town and you wouldn't have to worry so much about it. Hey it's summer, maybe throw some 50W in it and see what happens.........hehe.

Not sure of the rest of the condition of the car, but a decent running slant can be found a swaped out pretty cheaply. Might consider that over junking it and may recoup some of your investment?

Welcome ScaggsMan from the low country. Any questions you have, no matter how basic, we'll be here to help you.

The only other thing i could think of would be a wire in the ignition system moving and grounding out, but the fact that you can neutral it and keep it running still leads back to the carb. Just a wild guess, how's your fuel filter?

Not related here, but congrats on your show win FOP.

Syed, a carb rebuild would probably be where i would start. Being in Malaysia i'm sure it's not easy to get parts? Taking it apart just to clean and check float level would almost be impossible without a kit.

I'm cheap and hate to spend money, even other peoples:D. But, if you have a shop available local with a distributor machine you may want to pull it and let them run it and check for proper operation. They could also set up a timing curve for you that's suitable for your setup. As 805kid said...

Maybe a sign that the vac adv can is bad or the advance plate in the dizzy is stuck of frozen up? With that said that wouldn't affect your idling issues, would be more of a drivability thing. I was just hoping to pull some more timing in to see if it liked it. Does it look like a stock dist...

So when you applied the full vacuum to the vacuum advance the idle didn't speed up at all?

Vacuum reading looks good to me. especially with a relatively low compression number. I know the dist. housing wouldn't let you advance anymore, but did you try that full vacuum port just to test if with the vacuum advance it liked more initial timing?

71valiant, sorry i didn't mean to abandon you. Got back to back phone calls from a few of my kids. I'll go back and get caught up:D