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Not meaning to jack this thread but, I was not aware the direct wire from the alternator to starter relayed needed a fusible link. Guess I better correct that. Thx all and a Happy New Year to you.

Yea, I retired from Boeing Mesa in February of this year.

Yea, between the military and BOEING I spent 44 years in aerospace as a technician and field service engineer but, sometimes these old cars....

OK, horn relay looked a little funky, corrosion on terminals and wire connections, had a new one so replaced it. Corrosion on the horn terminals and wire connections. Cleaned with jewelers file and all seems well. Corrosion in dry AZ. Who would have thought?

Right.

OK, after having to get a complete rear axles rebuild, I drove the car home and all seemed well. When pulling onto the garage I turn the car off and blow the horn to alert the wife. The horns really didn't blow just made a low pitch weird sound. Strangely enough the volt gage almost pegged...

Sounds like an ignition switch issue but also check for power at bulkhead connector.

The ignition harness was my Big killer.

This brings back some memories for me. See my thread “voltage drop at ballast resistor “. Lots of good info from FABO. Good luck.

I always use my trickle charger. Works great.

Ok show it

Relocation complete. Thanks all.

Yes I do and that’s very nice.

Awesome. Thanks!!

Could please provide a picture. I hate to waste money buying a bracket I don't need.

I’m sorry, I meant to the right of the wiper motor.

Great job.

I think I want to move the coil from the horizontal position on the intake manifold to a vertical position to the left of the wiper motor on the firewall. I'm concerned the screws might hit the heater core. Any insight much appreciated.

I went through this very issue just last week with the dash lights. Checked everything twice. Ended up being a fuse that look good was bad. Also be sure to clean the fuse mounting locations, mine were slightly corroded. Cleaned area, new fuse BINGO!! Good luck.

Pulled aside some wires and bulb socket was almost completely out. 1/4 turn and done. Thanks partner. We are now 100%.

Thx go to all the guys here. I don’t know if I could have done it alone but, I learned a lot about car I thought I knew in and out.

Not real sure about the switch lever you mentioned. Sorry Plz be a little more specific.

ok did my final wire bundle securing today, filled her with antifreeze (new flex fan and radiator rework and new hoses), fired her up and man it sure is sweet. That fan is moving air like a hurricane. I’ll test drive in the a.m tomorrow before we hit triple digits. Thx to all you guys for your...

Yea, what do you think. On a funny note, the key in buzzer is really loud. Didn’t know it had one.

Ok, after all the madness I get it back together (except for putting that heavy *** seat back in) with no more then .5 volt drop anywhere, but my damn park brake light is out. I’ll be damned if I’m pulling that instrument cluster again. Thanks so much everyone for the help. You’re all the best.

Actually for the connector I'm working and a You Tube video I found, I just had to gently squeeze the blade from sides with needle nose pliers and I was able to pull it out. I pulled and cleaned them all. The red and black wires were pretty corroded.

Well look what I found. This blue wire, that connects where you see the other blue wire, was only held in place but 2 or 3 strands of wire. I removed and cleaned all blades on this connector. The red wire blade was pretty corroded.

I'm a visual kind of guy. You got any pictures or a DIY?

Can you show me a setup using this?

Not sure yet. Still in the reassembly phase. Going out of town for a week tomorrow to spend some time with the daughter (in the Army). Be back in a week. I'll be sure to let you know.