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I believe it is different as the 70, 70HD, and 70U are all different but I am unsure on if this applies to Dana 60s or not.

Yep, sounds like ya burnt her up not running the kickdown. Did that once before. Never again

x2

That's way better than the location of the stick on my 727 which is in the "open the hood and pour water straight in me" position

Yep, I realize that now Rob, it was a dumb question to ask really but it provided a lot of info for the swap in the future. Yep, so I can actually get on the highway and make long distance trips a lot more bearable. You obviously know the reason I chose the 727 was because it was what I had...

maybe this can help you? http://www.bpeusa.com/BPEtkdcInstructionsNEW.asp

Hard, but not like super hard. Hard enough to make people who have never felt a shift kit and don't know better think things are broken.:toothy10: I have a stage 2 in my truck and I really enjoy it alot, eventually you get used to it, but there's nothing quite like rolling at 40 and hitting the...

I don't think you really need the manual valve body unless this is gonna be some kind of hardcore all-out strip car. I think you will be very happy with just a stage 2 shift kit. It shifts pretty hard and alot faster than a person can shift.

Nope. They are definitely far from made of glass. Just fix your leaks and do some upgrades. Throw a stage two shift kit in there while you are at it and you will probably be wondering why you even thought about the 727

the 727 isn't a bad transmission, it just takes more power to turn. I'd personally just upgrade the 904. and 70aarcuda has it right.

Subscribed. you know I will probably be doing this soon

8.75 was around before the LA family took shape. They had been seeing plenty of big block abuse and otherwise quite tremendously torquey motors even before that, including 1st Gen Hemis. The 8 3/4 rear end was first put into service in 1957.

Hey man, go to NO MSG(Not On Main Street Garage). They are right off that end of 20 by the NAPA. 720 North Price Rd. Sugar Hill, GA 30518 (770)932-9311 http://www.notonmainstreetgarage.com/ They did an amazing job on my heads and were very reasonable. They also know their stuff and do a very...

You never know 100% til ya crack em open

did you figure out whatcha got in your cases? and to add a little closure to my end of this thread, I no longer have the car in mention, nor do I have any clue where it is as it has changed hands quite a few times since I traded for my truck. The truck is gonna get a cone type because its just...

Man, talk about one from the dead. This thread was started by me over 3 years ago.

Here's a little more info to help him out. I figure other people out there are watching with curious eyes http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38837&sid=519de74fc7fa86feb5a7afab9d0683aa

Different case, there is two cases for the 8 1/4, To quote DusterIdiot on the slant forum

That's it essentially, just have to find one out of an A-body and that isn't very difficult if you place a want ad on here or maybe even a local member to you in Cali will tell you where to find one. That and it will have a different bolt pattern, 5 x4.5" which is awesome to me and many others...

You have two options here: wait it out for an 8 3/4 Or: swap in the lesser Ford 8.8 or an 8 1/4 Not like those other two are that bad. The 8 1/4 will probably be easy to find and a direct bolt in from an A-body to an A-body. The F/M/J rear axle is about 3" wider it seems and requires the spring...

yeah, but for that, you could find one of the truck rear ends on the cheap and narrow it. Also, you can shorten the truck axle shafts down like the C-body units. I think OP is just trying to find a bolt in and go unit that doesn't need to be shortened or fongooled with in general.

Pictures really do sell more than a description

x2. But from the way the seller words it, it pretty much says "its not a sure-grip" "I have no idea what gear ratio it is as it should be disassembled and completely gone thru anyway and you can put any gear ratio and sure grip unit you desire."

Pass, there is better deals out there.

Get the Powertrax and go!

If it is positively a 8.75 powerlock, it will most likely be either The Richmond Powertrax unit or The Yukon PowrLok. I'd guess the Powertrax unit seeing as you can find them anywhere. The Yukon unit is hard to find and its $120 more than the Powertrax unit. Or it could be a Dana...

You really get what you pay for with converter. The Hughes converters from what I have read over and over again, have an inconsistent stall point and a pump design made by a 5th grader. IMO, buy a quality piece after saving up. Save the Hughes converter for someone who wants to put trash in...

Ashton. Your car most likely has the 8 1/4 rear. Its way too later after the deadline to have a 7 1/4 rearend. The 8 1/4 rear end it pretty strong. Its a pretty common upgrade from the 7 1/4 because it has BBP, is already A-body width and can take a beating from a very mild v8

Did you use the 318 converter behind the 360? If so. That's your problem. I saw your car on CL. Not bad for a four door.

Transmission first all the way. Fresh TQ, fresh transmission. That's the way I'd do it.