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the sway bars will really help, so will a set of subframe connectors. less flex, the better

that's great to hear! :thumbrig::cheers:

X2. I could fly out there and buy the tools I would need, do the work, and still feel like an arse for what I charged you for less than half that as well. Hell, you could probably ship your car to anywhere in the U.S. to another member and have them do it and still be out less than half that...

Bonus: 5x 4.5" bolt circle as well. I am planning on using one when I build a gasser, if ever. The one major downside is they are drum brake axles and they were never offered with discs. But here's a good write-up on the scarebird conversion...

Sounds like a wicked idea! a 4BT would fit comfortably, but there's two major drawbacks to that. Not as much power and cost. That and talk about shake, rattle, and roll, you will be getting a whole lot of the first. I'd do it. Be a very cool and unique project. I think your best bet on a...

What year Cobra Greg?

The springs on your car. and the torque spec of said center bolt. what size are your U-bolts? 3/8"? 1/2"?

How tight is that center pin set at Ed in ft/lbs and what size bolt is that? Give me an accurate reference.

Or the lack there-of. http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/frict2.html

Yes it would be very interesting to see the comparison. I'm sure you might be able to do such a thing with a modified hydraulic press or something of the sort. If the U bolts don't affect it at all, then why are we discussing this?

That's exactly what I have been getting at. Hence the deck of cards example. I spent a good bit of time thinking of something you have around to show you what I mean. The centering bolt holds them together yes, but that's not the focus here. It's the U-bolts.

take a deck of cards and fan them out forward like half a leaf spring. Now grab the "center of the spring"(the end of the deck) firmly, but not too tight. Now pull up on that bottom "leaf". It flexes pretty good right? Now tighten your grip real tight on the center of our gambling spring pack...

It's not supposed to. Its supposed to unify the leaves and the axle as one unit and center the springs and hold them center. If a leaf spring compresses, it flattens out some. When it does that, the leaves inch up each other, rubbing against each other and dampening the movement. When you...

The centering bolt is there for just what its named for. To center the leaf springs together and into the perch. They also don't bind the leaf springs together 100%. center bolts are not meant to be a strong link at all in the leaf spring, that's why if the U-bolts are negligently undertorqued...

with the U-bolts torqued down that much, it doesn't allow the leafs to move freely as much. That's pretty obvious stuff right there. When the leafs are at proper torque spec, it allows proper interleaf friction which creates a damping affect. By overtorquing, you are taking away the leafs...

yep. stick a level on the ground dead senter between the stands in the center of the car and see if its level. then set it under the exact center of every jack stand and check that too. Make sure everything is as level as can be. Its better to be anal and 100% sure. This is coming from my stand...

yeah. people ask this question ALOT on here

The fact that you are gonna be trying to push against the axles natural twist with air shocks. Think about it.

they are just a band-aid fix for bad suspension on A-body cars. bout all they are good for. That's what I was taught and that's my 2 cents. No offense meant towards other members who run em.

Pretty much covers it. remove allen head screws and see if the wheel just comes off the adapter. then remove the adapter.

Glad I could help. I struggled with that thing for a minute. That diagram saved my skin last time so I have kept it saved on my computer

bolt #1, the bolts for bracket #11, and the very very top bolt in picture #4 Sedanman posted all go into the water jackets in the block.

oops. Sedanman beat me to it with way better pics

like the stock one? Cause I can go take pics of the one in my truck right now. or I have this:

anyone?

okay guys. I ordered this kit and its on the way to my house (minus tie rod ends at the moment due to back order) http://www.p-s-t.com/s.nl/it.A/id.419/.f?sc=12 I also plan on getting new shocks, front brake lines, some cotter pins, and a steering coupler. Now here's what I'm wondering about...

mine is only $267 straight from PST and its polygraphite too. but I drive my truck and am kinda glad to be out of the A-body market corner suffering.

Not at Pull-A-Part or any of the ones in Northern GA I have ever been to. PM me and I can point you to every junkyard I know of in GA

which trucks came factory with a sway bar?

should I find a spring shop to make them or where could I find them? Hmm, who made them?