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I read this whole thread....and I deduce: Get rid of the 4160 Holley......get a 4150...and Open 1" Spacer. 4777-2, or 4779 650 DP/750 DP Change over to 275' Drag Radials...and footbrake to 2800 Ensure WOT actuation via Gas Pedal/Carb...... Use 91/93 Octane with 38* advance SHOULD RUN like...

^ I second, What he said.

225 /6 engines, and 904 transmissions are proven to be awesome powertrains. Yours needs some immediate attention, NOT a owner who is ready to quit and drop in some other manufacturers lower quality powertrain. Check the oil on your engine. Pull out the (6) spark plugs. Inspect them/replace...

I say just rebuild the Long Block back to stock specs (advertised 8.5:1 compression) and Blowthrough Single Turbocharge it.....600+ tire frying hp/tq, and better gas mileage (if you could just cruise it) than you'd believe on pump gas. Otherwise.....stroke it with a 440 crank, buy custom CR...

That IS a NICE and CLEAN setup. I have imagined that setup before....never seen it. It has its limits....but that IS nice. I am totally a advocate of Turbocharging....I say turbo it. *This is not mine, but almost exactly how I will plumb my own turbo system. 8)

I hear ya....reasons like this I will never run Magnum Engines/Heads....Pedestal Rockers?

This carb discussion was so Ripe...I felt the urge to jump in here. I personally have bought about (10) or so carbs in my Mopar Experience. Holley 650 VS - Good Carb...easy to setup...ran good out of the box -318 Holley 650 DP Mech. Choke, Mech Secondaries...little more complicated than the...

You really need a timing light, a vacuum gauge AND a Tach...but you can do it by ear. Do this....ok? Screw BOTH screws on the carb BACK in....then unscrew them 1.5 turns...each. leave them there. Now go sit in the car. Sit there. Focus on paying attention to the way the...

1st picture and the 3rd picture dont look to bueno...

in the end....you'll need slicks, gears,....like I said...even with a perfect launch your at your combos limit pretty much...those 3.23's absorb alot of torque....and require more to go faster.

so did this ever happen?

I totally agree. 2.33 60' is very soft off the line...you could pick up probably more than .500 second if you could get the car to 60' in the 1.8/1.9xs. by loading up the driveline and tweaking the timing up some more. Lower your rear tire pressure from a street pressure of around 34-37...

Id turbo it. 60-1 T4 10 psi on it till it pukes grab another and do it again!!!

Dayyyum. Looks to be twin 4788's. I will guesstimate 830hp on 10-14 psi, and 950-1000hp on 20 psi. Overkill....no doubt.

^ Agreed. To gain performance benefits from the 302's, you would need to Freshen Them at minimum to see any gain over your other heads. By freshen, I mean, hot tanked, magnufluxed, valves inspected, some fresh matching springs to your cam, new valve guides if needed, definetly new valve...

lbs/minute is quite a bit different than PSI (pounds per square inch)....so no, I do not mean it will push 70 psi. The most boost I have ever seen go through an engine was 45 psi and the engine that consumed that didn't last but a few pulls before the headgasket yielded....it was a...

LOL....yeah that one was HUGE...it weighed 88lbs and was a bear to move around. Obviously its a Holset turbo, but the model was HT4C...and it had a 106mm compressor inducer. Its OE (original equipment) on a Cummins 50 liter V16 Industrial/Commercial engine....and is one of the twins on that...

To answer your question on the effect....very little. All turbo's are nothing more than Air Compressors. A T70 would be plenty of turbo for a 5.2/5.9, and like I said before, will support upwards of 700hp. The only reason people upgrade turbo's is: You can only stuff so much air through a...

I HIGHLY recommend the Garrett GT4294R, in the .96 flavor, but the entry price is over $1200 because it is a fully floating Ball Bearing cartridge, and I was trying to give you the best turbo bang for your buck....the GT42R also has a much higher power threshold due to the ball bearings,....and...

A MP T70, with a .96 A/R will produce more than enough power...unless you are wanting to run mid-low 9's...then you need a 76mm or bigger...... .96 A/R will have the boost come on around 3000-4000 and hold steady through 8000. For 92 octane you would need a CR of under 9.5:1, 2 heat range...

No problem, I didn't mean to sound crass....I could've swore you didn't mention the solid intent to keep those heads....and saw it after I typed out a reply. I agree with Grinder....it is worth it, maybe 5-10hp to gasket match and clean up the ports....and the experience you gain from doing...

I will be straight forward.....get some 302' casting heads, and gasket match them, and plug/weld the smog ports....then it will be worth it power-wise and you won't have to cut .060 off the decks. and I can make it even easier, I'll sell you a bone stock set for $150 + shipping....I...

^ Just like 1qwikscamp said...273-318's are exactly the same externally. 340-360's the same. That is kinda common, the misfit. It is usually best to set the engine on the mounts loose, settle it squarely with a pry bar, and evenly tighten the bolts. Good luck.

regular HYD Cam engines cannot reuse lifters, it will wipe the cam lobes. Roller Cam engines can REUSE the ROLLER LIFTERS :cheers: Reason #1 I prefer to build roller motors.

Daddgumm MoMoparman, take it easy on the guy...its all hypothetical at this point. He is trying to figure if its feasible for his goals...

I recommend sticking with a Single Turbo concept...purely on the basis that it is simpler, more effecient and is easier to package. With that, my turbo recommendations are: Garrett GT35 with .85 A/R exhaust housing or Precision Turbo SC6152, with .96 A/R housing with 40mm Wastegate with...

You should follow along with this guys thread: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=49548 IMHO, he is setting it up for ALOT of fun and although he has a nice budget (on the parts he has already purchased), the same can be done on a more effecient budget and get close to the...

You took that out of the wrong context....I wasn't saying Build a 318 because they are plentiful. I said: if you use one as a Forced Induction Longblock....you can easily replace it IF it breaks....vs. a Heavily Machined, Modified 340-360....LOL. And for turbo/supercharger duty...you...

You are correct....anything below 10:1 is good for a minimum of 10 psi of boost..(I ran a turbo car with 28psi with 8.8:1 compression)..how long a cast piston lasts with boost is another issue, BUT....I know of a few turbo V-Eight guys with upwards of 600hp on cast pistons.

THE TRUTH ABOUT 318's: They were never designed or intended to be powerful engines. They were designed and intended to be "The Peoples Engine". Make enough torque to move LIGHT DUTY 3000-4000 lb. cars, trucks and vans. Their weakness is built in. Their weakest points are...