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I'll take the 5th.

Take it to some one that has a housing jig to see if the housing is straight. This ^^^^

340 4spd 3:91s flat out get it.

If you still want differential action use a lunch box locker.

Summit Racing, just use 340 or 318.

Just bottom it and pull it out 1" from the bottom out spot.

I run Motive's in my rock crawler front and rear and have no problem. I have also installed a set in my Duster, but what happens with that remains to be seen.

One more thing to make sure of is that a needle bearing did not fall out and is between the cap and cross.

Looks good to me.

Do believe they are 1/8" or 1/4" NPT.

If your vise will open wide enough, you can use two sockets and use the vise as a press by closing it. Much better that beating em out.

If you feel that the T.A. sits to low you can build a pedestal and mount it on that.

Nope, fits just fine.

Turbo Action

:thumbup::thumbup: For the Turbo Action.

See here http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=2167

Slop is normal, just stage your drive line before you drop the hammer. I run two of them in my street driven 4x4 not a problem. As far as ARB's go I'd rather have my Detroit's don't have to worry about and air line braking or a compressor going out at a time when you need it most. Oh only thing...

Is it the tranny that was in the car or did they replace with like kind? It could be important if it was replaced.

According to the Mopar bible dis-assembly of the trans is necessary.

Yep, real PITA.

I would check to see if the trans is centered with the crank center line you may have a situation that requires the use of offset dowels.

X3 on the solid sleeve, once you crush a crush sleeve and loosen the pinion nut you will have changed the bearing preload. A solid sleeve uses shims to set the preload, so you can loosen the pinion nut and re tighten and still get back to the original preload. Not having enough bearing preload...

Can't hurt, can only keep axle wrap to a minimum.

I say the SCS also.

I went to www.ActionMachineinc.com and got this nice aluminum driveshaft for $375. to my door in just about 4 days. Oh and it's a 1350 u-joint not that other stuff.

Better yet find how your d shaft joint wants you to measure and then do it they way they said. They will know from those measurements how to build your shaft. I have found every place likes to measure there own way. Do you have a shaft now?

Welcome

See above

Web site is http://www.actionmachineinc.com It is for a 727 Duster but with a 9", Length is 50" center of rear u joint to end of trans output shaft.

$375 to my door.