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Try blocking off the fuel hose and spraying starter fluid down the carb throat (hold throttle open while spraying, then close). If your spark is close (say TDC to 30 deg ATDC), it should run on the starter fluid. You can keep giving it shots to keep it running. That would tell you if it is a...

I use 10 might be 12 can't remember.

This^^^ if that don't work have your starter checked. I have the same setup with one yellow top and it cranks like mad, check your timing too.

Thanks all, when I used the wizard to get the wiring diagram I used 13.8 for the input voltage. Here is a list of parts used costs. 20ea - 56 ohm 1 watt resistors 1.09 for a pack of 4 80ea - HF5-R5590 LED's .25 EA 24ea - HF5-Y5590 LED's .25 EA 4ea - BAY 15D...

Here is the lay out for the front parking and turn signal lights. Its three vertical rows and four horizontal of three LED's each. The upper and lower row of three will be the parking lights and the two center rows of three the turn signals. The three vertical rows fit centered in each of the...

Here are the pic's of the wiring for the four boards of LED's. First is the series wiring of all the LED's, second is the completed board with resistors and the two rows connected in parallel. Pretty easy, nothing to it if you can solder.

Here ya go some shots in the dark with no flash this time. First one is just the parking lamp, second is comparison with just the parking lamps, third is comparison brake light and the forth is just a dupe.

And the stop light. Actually the turn signal, thats why it looks a little dim still has the regular bulb in the front. When done I will have to use a different flasher for LED's as they draw less current and the standard flasher will not work. Will take a couple later when its dark.

Here is a teaser shot of the tail lamps.

As far as the wiring of the LED's go I used the LED Centers Wizard. Here is a link http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz it gives you the wiring diagram and what resistors you will need to complete your project with just a little input that can be found on superbrites web site. All the LED's used are...

Here is a shot of how it looks with the lens on, if you look close you can see the leds behind the lens.

Next came the tedious task of wiring all the LED's up, more on this latter as I did not get any pics but I will have some from the next tail lamp. Here is what it will look like without the lens, after I will attach the two strips permanently. For now they are just held in place with some strip...

Next I took the tail light assembly out and removed the lens to see how I was going to locate the two strips. I had to put a few small pieces in with JB Weld for the strips to rest on. You can see these in the first pic above.

Next was to design my array of LED's, I decided on two rows one with 8 LED's for the tail lights and one with 12 LED's for the turn and stop lights.

Decided to fab up some LED running lights for my 70 Duster. Here is a little progress with just about one tail light done. Will keep updating as I go and give a complete list of what I used to complete the project. First step was to cut some perforated pc board to fit the two slots in the...

ground

I would first start by checking the timing marks at TDC.

Does any one know if anyone makes a replacement side marker light pigtail w/socket for a 70 Duster that doesn't cost the first born child?

Have a look here lots of good info http://www.madelectrical.com/

See Here http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

If your selling it I'll take it, just give me your Paypal info.

Anyone know where I can get the pigtail plug for the back of the Denso Alternator?

Its a condenser for noise suppression. Don't know for sure what the other thing is but I would say it's some kind of resistor. Don't think you need either.

If I were you I would remove anything and everything I had to to get a socket on the damper bolt so you can really turn the dame thing. If it's still that tight than it's fawked, I'd be pulling it apart.

Superbright makes an electronic flasher for that.

Optima, yellow if you race without an alternator. If not just get a red.

Hope all that white stuff isn't pkp the stuff is a real corrosive. If it is I suggest you get it cleaned up ASAP.

Jeez, don't you own a test lamp. I suggest you buy one it's not rocket science.

If it's the blue regulator I would not use it for street duty, I have one on my duster and it really cooks the battery. Had a maintenance type battery and got acid all over the place.

Short in the wire?