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Some of the M1 manifolds used a smaller thermostat, maybe the same one as used on Magnum engines. Your new manifold is probably specced for the one used in V8s from the 1950s until the Magnum came out.

I was just reading the thread that Joe posted, and someone from Detroit Muscle Technologies was telling Van's that a guy who used to work at Roseville but is now at Mancini's has been working on a reproduction. Is that clear enough? :p

Tom, Part #P4529116 Number cast into bottom of the intake is P4532059. If you see someone selling it claiming the casting number is the PN, it's probably what you're looking for.

Here you go. Partial VIN on 340 and 727 on a late build '68 Barracuda. 8 for 1968, B for Hamtramck, six digit sequential number. You can stand on the same spot and see the VIN tag on the dash and the engine and trans numbers. My '68 Road Runner, also a late build, had the same location for...

If you want to clean an engine, be careful using an additive, especially if it contains solvents. It could wash lube off surfaces causing damage. Maybe you have little to lose if you're trying to save an engine on its last legs. But if it's a good engine there are very effective oils designed...

No forged steel pistons either.

As much as it pains me to say it, the Valvoline guy is spot on. While he addresses flat tappet camshaft engines, he doesn't mention the high PSI valve springs that many of us have. Those make me want more than the 800 ppm of ZDDP limited by the modern spec oils. For stockish 318s and slantys...

I'd use it to help someone who wanted a non-detergent motor oil. There was an older gent who had an unrestored Hupmobile. I asked the tech folks what to recommend. They said the hydraulic oil sold at the time was what he wanted. It had anti rust, wear and foam additives. It was only sold in...

This chart was a favorite of mine. I mostly used it to show people that just because the number is higher for SAE grades of gear oil, they aren't thicker than the lower numbered motor oils. The higher numbers starting back then at 75W were chosen so folks would know it's a gear oil. The chart...

Yep. Anyone who's pulled a drain plug on a hot engine full of 20W-50 isn't thinking about molasses. The difference in viscosity between a grade 30 and grade 50 at 100°C is small, yet there is a difference in oil film thickness.

This is one of my favorite graphs. When it is extended back to 0°C, you can see how the multi-grades thin at a slower rate than the straight grades.

Mike, do you have a vent you can open to fill your float bowl? On my Carter AVS, I open the vent, put in a little funnel, and pour in 2-3 ounces of gas. It starts instantly after sitting a week or more. Otherwise, it's crank for ten second or more until the pump fills the float bowls.

Rusty got both things that you can do by changing oil and filter. Lighter oil when cold and a good anti drain back valve in the filter is what you can do easily and somewhat cheaply. A European spec 0W-30 and a filter with a silicone anti drain back valve would be my choice. There's plenty of...

$27 for 5 quarts at Wally's. Free shipping if you buy two. 1000+ ppm ZDDP. Meets all the high end euro specs for anti-wear, which aren't concerned with SAPS content. Fully formulated, so no guessing if your additive is doing more harm than good. Good for most all of our engines, except race...

It looks like Gates 20602. That's the same hose listed for '68 340 cars with A/C. Here's a view from the front. You can see it's needed to clear the compressor.

Consider the source.

He hung that curve, and you took it deep!

Donaldson P550008 is a high quality, American made filter. Baldwin B2 was and still may be, but they've been bought out a couple of times and may have gone "global".

Not as a company, but the name lives on as a product of Conoco-Phillips. It's been bought and sold at least three times since it was an independent company. All of those traditional, old-name lube company logos you see on modern oils have no relation to their origins except the logos themselves.

Oops, sorry I missed. Meant to hit agree. Fixed. Yes, my opinion is that unless you are going for extended oil change intervals, the small amount of filter capacity lost to the smaller filter is insignificant. So are the few ounces less in sump capacity.

Figure a little less, as the base of the angle finder is sitting on the rim of the filter. *Edit - the rim of the filter is worth two degrees. So about 16-17 degrees downward in my '68 Barracuda.

A shorter filter will be easier to install. I use the full length one and space is tight. I might figure out a way to measure the angle, but for now Dicer's sounds pretty good.

Take post 48 and bookmark it. Or make a sticky. Or do what is needed so when the same question arises in a few weeks it can be referred to here.

Mobil1 FS 0W-40 is a fully formulated oil, so no mixing needed. It has 1000 ppm ZDDP. It meets all the high zoot Porsche, VW, and Mercedes Euro specs, which are more demanding than the American and Asian standards. Five quarts for around $25 at Wally World. The head guy at HPL says it's the...

@Dannyd I spent 32 years in the automotive lube business. I just counted eight untrue statements in your two posts. I don't have time to go through them one by one. But that's OK, I'm not going to try to change what you believe, just try to help you get you what you want. Quaker State has...

The table is from 1970, I think. It shows 383-2bbl, 440 HP & 6bbl, and Hemi. That choice was only 1970 for Barracudas. Not that it matters a hill of beans in this discussion. Thanks for sharing. :thumbsup:

Post 12.

Start looking for a Carter M6902. They've been out of production for awhile. They are the better pump, with a rating of 6 PSI, so no regulator needed. They are clockable, so can be made to fit more easily. They're also rebuildable, so when you find one, it should be your last. They show up on...

Because two wasn't enough. :lol:

It's all good, my friend. :thumbsup: