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The way I did it, using silicone grease, was to slide the bushing on the bar. Then I used two pairs of large Channellock pliers with pieces of rubber inner tube zip-tied over the jaws to keep from chewing up the bushings. After lubing up the brackets, I forced the bushings in by applying...

At least until recently, the only replacement bushings are the Energy Suspension polys. Maybe someone makes rubber, but I didn't find any. The polys work well. Just use plenty of silicone grease to squeeze them into the triangle shaped brackets. Every couple of years I loosen the mounts and...

I really like this idea. It might make a nice side hustle for someone with the requisite skills and tools. Increased caster with OEM appearance for a price below aftermarket tubular UCAs.

There's a couple ways to do this. One way which gets very good reviews is supplied by FABO member @BergmanAutoCraft Steering Parts and Accessories - Bergman Auto Craft

I think if you get the pitman arm for the 1973 and later for the manual steering gear you'll be good to go. It fits on the smaller sector shaft like on your manual box, but the stud points down to fit the '73 and up center link. Check out Moog K7075.

There's got to be a horn switch. I'm not sure how the turn signal canceller works. My '72 Challenger had a tuff wheel, but I never had it apart. It was working. I had enough other things on the then ten year old car that needed attention I wasn't going to fix what wasn't broken.

Google "Mopar 3467186" and you'll find several choices. Mostly reproduction, but if you're persistent an original will turn up.

Using a fine grease needle in the fitting on a grease gun, pump tacky EP grease between the boot down next to the stud. Try to get it into and next to the joint itself. Work the stud around to get as much on the ball as possible. Then fill the boot so it's firm to the touch, but not so it's...

Moog replacement for 1972 & earlier A-Bodies below the Moog K750074 Moog K8266 replacement for 1972 and earlier A-Bodies. New ball joint style for Ford applications. As you can see, the "business length" is a bit more than a half inch longer. It's close to a bolt-in. If the extra half...

It's supposed to be a bolt in on some A-Bodies. Needs to be altered for Bs and Es. Moog Chassis Parts K750074 Moog Sway Bar End Links | Summit Racing I have a pair, but I haven't installed them yet. If you'd like, I could take some measurements.

'62-'66 A-body K-Frame Reinforcement Kit (DIY) They re-did their website, and now there aren't any pictures of their kits. Maybe they don't want to help folks make their own. *Treed by lilcuda!

I look for North American made old stock on eBay. Not cheap, but better than Chinesium. New NOS Mopar Suspension Steering Arm 1967-1972 Plymouth Barracuda 268-1566 | eBay New MOOG K7074 Pitman Arm Dodge Plymouth Chrysler 1962 - 1972 | eBay

It looks really dry. I always lube them up. Some nice gooey, tacky grease might help. Also, maybe try taking the shoes off and flipping them over. It looks like they maybe on wrong. Flat part towards shaft, curved part towards coupler. See this picture from a service bulletin. Here's...

Saginaw. You can tell by the oval shaped tank. If it has a dipstick, you also have the early cap, which is desirable.

That makes sense. All my experience with 1970 and up is B-Body, B-Engine.

Yes, and they'll fit. But pretty unusual to see an original one in the wild. I don't think I've seen a '69 or later without a Saginaw.

Saginaw was a division of GM for decades until they were spun off with several others divisions into Delphi. Chrysler bought the pumps and adapted them to their applications because they are a good pump. Mostly Saginaw pumps didn't show up on LA engines until 1969. Because the aluminum water...

See post #27 from the man who's done it many times. :thumbsup:

I've read in this forum several times that you should adjust your strut rods to achieve zero binding, and that adjusting them to gain additional positive caster can cause binding. If the offset bushings give you less caster than desired, the best solution is to use aftermarket upper control...

Francois, do I understand you ordered one of the nuts from Ebay? I know I have a new one around here I'd send to you. I'd just need to locate it.

I've used this Dorman online catalog. It takes a while, but look up what you need by size, then order by part number through Summit, Rock Auto, Amazon, your local store... Dorman Products - Visual Search

The guy who made the skosh chart geared it towards performance driving. Due to their size, and especially weight, he didn't believe C-Bodies were well suited for that. You can always ask him yourself. Look for the link on the page. Rick Ehrenberg's Mopars

They fit, but no, they don't seal as well. You need to use the stickiest grease you can, because it will come out of the bottom. I've used these with good results on the 1973 and later large ball joints. They fit NORS Moog uppers well, and can be persuaded onto the lowers. They're too big...

Here's a paint that resembles Cosmoline. Used with stainless steel paint for the part left exposed it gives a durable finish that looks OEM. Restorations by Rick Kreuziger - Product and Component Restoration Detailed Information

K7103 I see it on the diagram. MOOG K7103 Control Arm Bushing | RockAuto Moog Chassis Parts K7103 Moog Control Arm Bushings | Summit Racing Probably can get them at your local parts house, too. If not in stock, they can order them.

Mancini Racing tool. Old stock TRW. Old stock Moog. As you can see there's only 2-3 hundredths clearance. I got the socket as part of a set from Mancini Racing years ago. It was a lot cheaper per tool to buy the set, and I've since come out ahead over buying them separately. I've never...

PST sells good stuff and has a discount for FABO members. ($200 minimum order.) Lower Ball Joint A Bodies Only Member's Discount

Old stock Moog. Probably better than anything made since the millennium. I've bought from this seller and have no complaints. Moog Left & Right Lower Ball Joint 1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 70 Cuda Valiant Dart | eBay

Espo Spring in Pennsylvania and Mancini Racing outside of Detroit are frequently used sources.

See below. A good way to go about finding the old stock suspension and steering parts is to come up with a part number. A Moog number is good because several companies use it. It's almost universal, even if Moog doesn't make that part anymore. These numbers can be found on many online parts...