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The parts manual for 1968 lists the same left side manifold as 1969. PN 2946728 The date on the manual is March 1969, supersedes April 1968. Since this later manifold will fit both manual and power steering, it's likely the earlier number was discontinued. The number for the '67 left side...

There's a lot of factory information available here. Scroll to the bottom, and there are links to downloads for parts and service manuals. Having them for your car is a good first step. MyMopar When I got my current Barracuda, I passed on a 383 car because I didn't want my wife to say "Sure...

Power steering would've always fit. One way to research it is to get the 1969 parts manual, and look up the part numbers for the components. Then look up the numbers in the indexes of other years to see if the parts were available and for which models.

The 1969 383 Barracuda was available with power steering. That baloney about there not being enough room was just marketing to make folks think the engine is huge. A/C wasn't available, but has been made to fit since.

Are you using any type of vapor return? It would require running a line back to the tank, but it works very well to cure vapor lock with mechanical pumps. The factory used them on some 440s around 1969-'70. Repops are available by Goodmark, I think. Also Wix makes a filter filter that will...

Spectra makes quality stuff. Mostly Canadian, so much much better than Chinese. Spectra FG69B is a sending unit with a 3/8" pickup and has a vapor return port. You can neck down the 3/8" to match your factory line. Plug the port if you don't have a return line yet. If you have a starvation...

It's up to you. If you want to point at the fuel line and tell people it's 3/8", go ahead and upsize it. For the purpose you said you plan to use the car, a stock fuel system with mechanical pump should be fine. You'll need the larger fuel capacity at higher RPM. Where I live, if you spend...

I've had several big block cars that worked fine with 5/16" fuel line. To get the benefit of the 3/8" line, you'll need to change the steel line, too. I'd try and see if you need it before upgrading. You'll only notice a fuel starvation at higher RPMs. If you don't have a problem, no need...

There's nothing quite like a good vihta whipping.

Do you still have the orange box? I'd love to have something that was part of Kenny's car.

Thanks for contributing, and welcome to FABO!

For entertainment purposes only, written by a guy with a lot of self love. It's one person's testing, opinions and conclusions, which have been refuted by many actually in the industry. Those people who formulate and blend the lubes have to stand behind their performance, not just write about...

You've got it sorted out just fine. There's no one solution for everything, and you find what works for you and go with that. The only thing I'd respond to in your post is that the 0W, 5W, 10W, etc only refers to the oils ability to flow when cold. As long as it is in grade as a 30 at 100°C...

Time and technology advance. True for cars and true for oil. My 2019 Jeep requires per the manual Mopar spec MS-6395 in grade 0W-20. I don't know if there are any that aren't synthetic based. The one recommended by name in the manual is. While that product will do fine, being in the manual...

It's good stuff. To find a good price you may need to shop around. Right now Amazon is showing the 10W-30 at $5.88 a quart. All the others are more. Some a lot more.

You are welcome, Sir.

Mineral VR-1 will do well. Since cost is a concern, check out Mobil1 15W-50 and FS 0W-40 from Walmart in 5 quart containers. You can get two shipped for free. Last time I checked they were about $25 each. The 15W-50 has lots of ZDDP, and the 0W-40 has just a bit less, but still enough for...

Let me know when you've sold 7 million gallons of the best selling motor oil in the U.S. Crower is just covering their ***, and trying to sell an over-priced ($21@ Summit) product at the same time. For $25, there are five quart containers of Mobil1 available with over 1100ppm ZDDP in a few...

Yeah, I only spent 32 years in the motor oil business. WTF do I know?

For competition engines, sure, but that's not a good solution for an engine that sees street duty or that has it's oil left in the sump for extended periods. Plenty of oils have enough ZDDP without having to blend in an additive that may react with the base product in an unknown way. Plus...

Lucas Hot Rod oil contains ZDDP far in excess of levels proven to cause pitting and spalling in metals. This has been known for decades. The 1400 ppm in the VR-1 is right at the maximum level that balances anti-wear protection while avoiding potential damage from too much ZDDP. Except for cost...

Then use the synthetic. It has a slightly higher viscosity index, which means it's more resistant to thinning due to heat. It will also meet it's high and low temperature performance requirements using less viscosity index improver and/or pour point depressant additive. These additives will...

Is price a consideration?

Patting myself on the back for a lucky guess...:p

.040 over 413?

The OP hasn't been back yet to weigh in. :rolleyes:

What are the intake and exhaust manifolds? Is the left side exhaust an M-Code manifold, a 383 or something else? Does the air cleaner have a drop base? I really like it. Thanks!

It depends what you want. If you want a B engine for the cool factor, do it. More work, sure, but if that's what you want. A 400 can easily be stroked out to around 500 cu in, and with aluminum heads, intake manifold and water pump, you can get the weight down to just a little bit more than a...

@rr4406pak

90 octane non-ethanol gas. Rec is abbreviation for recreational, as in boats, ATVs, etc. Good for most anything with a carburetor, as long as the octane is sufficiently high. Works nice in my 340. Higher than 90 is available some places, but not near me. I'm about 2 miles from a Great Lake...