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No I don't think so. If you think about the belt routing on a SB with AC and PS. You have dual belts that go alternator, Compressor and crank. Then you have WP,crank (outer third groove)PS pump.

That makes it harder as the stock Alternator location will place it one groove shy of lining up with the shallow WP pulley. Even with a DP alternator.

You can use the AC water pump pulley if you have PS it is not tough to do. You need a 3 groove crank pulley.

I have a aluminum homemade shroud. If you give me the dimensions of your core I’ll see if it will work.

The smaller pulleys are for AC cars and are at a different height. You would have alignment issues.

That has been my experience with the older cooling systems.

Beat me to it. The fill level needs to be down about an inch. Or as I do, let it bleed off the excessive amount. It will stop the bleeding off of the fluid. My 69 Dart does the same.

There is nothing wrong with the way you have it and it shouldn’t effect the cooling of it. I try and plug the intake and pump to keep it looking cleaner when I’m not going to run a heater.

I know my old AC system in my 69 Dart works great with the RV-2 compressor and R -134.

C-body radiator, 1971 383 motor , 26" core, for cars with an automatic & A/C

You can’t just change the timing cover to the earlier one. There more to it. You TDC indicator will be in the wrong place. The early cover uses a cast iron pump. The later used a aluminum pump. The lower radiator hose connections are on opposite sides. I would put what was on there.

No I don’t. It mounts with 4 small bolts to the inside face of the radiator.

I have one of the troops on my 69 Dart. The fit as far as bolting up is very good. My complaint is in the middle like where the radiator cap is, the shroud pulled away from the radiator and there is a gap there. Other than that it has held up good. It’s been on there about 5-7 years.

The OEM temperature sending unit is 1/8" NPT.

Drop the largest diameter bolt into the opening. This way when you crank down with a pipe wrench, it won't crush the nipple.

It doesn’t take any time at all to bleed the air out of a closed system with a 1/8” hole in the stat. I’ve done it to many times. But I guess it is a preference type deal.

Well now if I said no, that would be a lie.

So half of us drill holes all the time and the other half pull their hose all the time. I’m glad I belong to the first group.

Old timer thought me this trick 50 years ago. Doesn’t hurt a thing and is easier than removing hoses that may be stuck. Plus it’s one and done. Never have to do it again until you want to replace it.

Absolutely yes! I have a LD-340 intake on my 360 69 Dart with the factory RV-2 compressor on it.

That is a good idea! Thanks

$10.00 for a t-stat gasket? Nope not in my lifetime. Never had a problem sealing them. Unless your are using a POS China housing.

Listen to the masses. Get a Helicoil kit.

You have to start with a clean radiator before you start applying bandaids.

I forgot to mention that since my Dart was a factory A/C car, it did come with a three core radiator.

My 69 Dart has the original 273 radiator in it with a 360 in it now with factory A/C. My car would do the same thing, cool great as long as I was moving, but slowly climb in temperature when I was at a red light. The radiator looked very clean but I pulled it out and took it to a old school...

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If it is the old RV-2 compressor, it should bring the duct temp to 34-40 with the windows up and fan on high. Make sure your moving enough air across the condenser. I use a fan.

Low side showing the low pressure switch cutting power to the clutch. At a slightly higher than idle I would shoot for 30-35 on the low side and 200-250 on high side.

I forget the Champion 3 core radiator part number I used, but I think it was CC526. It cools my 68 416 Barracuda really well. I used a 16" single electric fan.