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Looks like Volvo,BMW or Mercedes to me.

I have an NOS assembly and it has a white lense with an amber painted bulb still in the box...I would think it is correct

the lenses on 67's were white with an amber bulb

Who makes a decent one? Who did you use? I looked at Classic Industries but they don't list any options for the harness. My 67 car is v8,a/c,power washer motor,dual horns and fender signals. Thanks in advance

I'd get one for a slant car. The BB and slant A body used the same harness

yep,cigar lighter

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It's really hard to tell by pics but that plug may be for the wiper switch. Does your harness have plugs for the column? It is white,thin and holds 5 or 6 wires? There should also be a sky blue the same size.

pic 3 is the speaker wires,pic 4 is for the hazard flasher,pic 5 is for the speedo, the 2 yellows are for the door jamb switch,the cluster of plugs is for the ignition switch for 67-9 and turn signal flasher. What year is your car?

This is what they look like and where they are mounted

The other new VR I have and swapped is the same but has the big black factory cover. The battery is at 12.6 not running.

I know and I appreciate it. I am in the middle of putting the axle back together and swapping springs before I go back to the charging issue again. I don't want to have too many things apart at once. I did use the solid state old style VR and both are new and still the same issue. I did pick up...

I'm having the same problem with my 67 Valiant and still trying to figure it out.

I did the ground of the VR to the ground on the battery and I get 0.10 - 0.13V. I also did a test from the + on battery to the blue wire/ign on my VR and get 12.20V without the alternator field grounded which is the same I get by testing the battery alone at idle.

It sounds like you are keeping the 69/ earlier regulator? I was hoping to keep my engine bay stock but with some stock upgrades. I'm assuming that I can't swap one without the other even if the replacement is the solid state/old style? I will do those tests in a little bit. I am not able to...

I used a multimeter and an aftermarket guage at the battery terminals and both read the same. I had the battery tested and they said it checks out and no dead cells. I ran a jumper terminal from the 2nd FLD to the blue wire on the old style/solid state VR and it is still in the 12's (per a few...

I ran the blue wire like Brian suggested and it actually puts out less (12.1). Do I have to run the newer regulator to match the alternator or can I use the solid state older style? I'll double check the bulk head connections too. I connected the blue wire to the start side of the ballast. Does...

I did that yesterday and same issue

When I first took it off and started it up it slowly crept up to the 15.2 in stages and then stayed there. It isn't actually driveable yet,I have to swap the axle out to swap gears and grease the axle bearings. I'm just trying to get as many bugs worked out as I can so it will be driveable to...

I have a 67 Valiant small block with factory wiring. I have a sqaure back alternator (75 dart) with 2 fields but the car wiring didn't come with 2 field wires and I noticed that the 2nd field was grounded which is overcharging at idle (15.2) so I unplugged it and it reads (12.4). I also have the...

Yours should say what it is on the outter edge.

I like that set up and will have to try it once It warms up here.

Thanks

I'm running a 70- up style small block

That part # is 60 amps

Are you using factory brackets? Pics of your set up?

The bracket I pulled off of a mid to late 80's full sized car will put it far away from exhaust and should bolt right to the intake bolt and should be in about the same place as the factory coil location.

it will say hi or low in the outter ring groove.

What module # are you guys using? I'm using an old MP distributor from a kit I bought 15 + years ago.