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Hah. If someone asks me if I'm alright, I always say, "Half left".

I found it! The fuse didn't blow when I put one in just now. Hmmm. It blew 3 the other day. I tried jiggling the connector on the firewall that goes down to the neutral safety/reverse light switch while watching the b/u lights with a mirror. They flickered. Upon disconnecting the connector...

Thanks. You just posted while I was typing. Flashers get juice when t/s are on, fuse blows without them on. BTW, hazards work fine, including indicating arrows on dash, but they are on different fuses. However, the indicators don't work when the t/s are on. All dead.

No service manual, just the wiring diagram. I don't remember where I got it, but I have this info. I'm 63, getting CRS. :rolleyes: I already pulled the flasher, but that would get juice when the t/s are on. The fuse blows just after turning the key on, b/u and t/s off. It was a 3...

Thinking further, tomorrow I’ll disconnect the steering column harness and then the connector to the bu light switch. Maybe that will narrow it down.

My 74 Dart Sport, which is cloned into the Duster in my avatar, just started blowing the fuse that handles the turn signals, back up lights, heater blower and the wipers. I only have the turn signals and back up lights on the car; the heater and wipers aren't on it. The fuse blows a couple...

I guess that’s a good possibility. I have some dash lights that aren’t working. When I get to that, I’ll look into this more. in the meantime, I’m powering the relay from the blue field wire. I measured 11.2 volts, and it’s working fine. Great information. I’m learning a lot about the wiring in...

All I know is that diagram is from mymopar.com.

A

This pic is a section of what I printed out from mymopar.com. What I need to know, and what it doesn’t show, is where the brake failure light circuit gets its 12v. The fuse it goes to is good, and everything else on that fuse works. I am powering an accessory fuse block that I added through it...

Thanks. I just downloaded it. Last I heard, thy didn’t have the 74.

Yep, that’s the one. Thanks

It’s the wire where my probe is. I’m looking for a wiring diagram. I see Classic has one, but it’s not in stock yet. ML13063A - 1974 Dodge Dart / Plymouth Duster 8-1/2 i just found and ordered this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J1P339S/?tag=fabo03-20

This all worked well for a while. Now though, there’s no power at that spade connector I mentioned. The problem seems to have coincided with me welding on the car and forgetting to disconnect the battery first. Anyhow, said spade connector is in the brake warning light circuit. Been checking...

All I can say is the loose connection fixed it immediately. No gearbox on the speedo. There is no other unknown device under the hood. I’ve had the whole car apart. There is only one yellow wire, and that has a black tracer. I’ll look into it more when I have time. Thanks for pointing me in...

It’s part of it, I don’t know what it is. When I bought the car, it had no evidence of fiddling. Was all original. The ground wire under the bolt is for my line lock. A couple years ago, you helped me with a no start on this car and you mentioned the button thing and I’ve read a lot since then...

I’ve been trying to wrap up my project car, a 1974 Dart Sport. Cloned it into a 1971 Duster. As of a couple days ago, it cranked and started. Yesterday, I was welding in tail light brackets and forgot to disconnect the battery. Now it won’t crank. I can jump the relay, and with the key on, it...

Success! I used the spade connector mentioned in post 18 to power the relay (switched 12v), the relay mentioned in post 24, and the fuse block mentioned in post 12. The unswitched 12v came from the starter relay. I powered the fuel pump, line lock, atf temp gauge, volt gauge, oil pressure idiot...

I found a female spade terminal on the outside of the firewall, where the wiring harness turns from along the firewall, and goes towards the starter relay. I’m not using it, and it’s only hot with the key in run position. I’ll check the voltage on it before I use it. (For my add-on fuse block.)...

I’m thinking that the wipers won’t work on accessory, but the blower motor might. I’ll find out tomorrow. I don’t want anything I’m adding to work on accessory, so I’ll go from there. Other than test running the engine a couple years ago, this car hasn’t been used since 2008. I hooked up a...

I wasn’t considering the accessory aspect. Good point. I’m sure I’ll find something. Thanks

I ordered this: I like the idea of finding a different power source. I know the wipers are available. They’re gone. Probably something else too.

So here’s what I’m thinking on adding circuits. I have this: Summit Racing SUM-900356 Summit Racing™ Fuse Blocks | Summit Racing It’s for: -tach -oil pressure light -volt gauge -electric ATF temp gauge -fuel pump (Holley blue) -line lock Research tells me that the last two draw 5 amps each, and...

No problem. I ordered a new clutch pedal rod boot.

That’s a good idea. I bought wood grain dash decals from them. They were a lot cheaper than Cla$$ic. :)

Sure enough, mine’s kinda rough. Classic has them. MD2514 - 1967-74 Mopar Firewall Clutch Boot ; A, B & E-Body :thankyou::thumbsup:

Ok, thanks. It was a stick. But now I know what to look for. Maybe it’s repopped. Edit. Maybe the one that’s there will work. I pulled it out of the way and never thought to consider using it. Sometimes I wonder about me…

@Kendog 170 @crackedback or anyone else who may have done this, what grommet did you use in the clutch rod hole?

I appreciate what you're saying. The toggle wouldn't be for safety, per se, it would be to make servicing easier. I.E., I could turn the pump off before I shut the engine off, to drain the bowls before a jet change. The safety aspect will be covered by the "PUSH OFF" shut off switch on the back...

Thanks, Mattax. I do get that I don't want to load anything excessively. But I certainly appreciate you being sure that I do! I will check out your links as I get into this.