Search results for query: *

My dad's stock 904 went 12s, my brother's stock 904 went 12.60, and both could have gone 11s. So put a stock 904 behind a stock engine and not worry about it

They will handle plenty of horsepower, if built correctly. I have been 9.90 et with a 3200 lb AMX, and my buddy has been 9.60 with his 68 Dart. I put over 300 runs on the AMX with zero issues.

1/8" pipe is the thread in the transmission. I don't have a link, but pictures of the factory inverted flare fitting

5/16” is the line size, 1/8” is the pipe fitting size that goes in the transmission.

Is it possible that the transmission you put in is a 904 but has a 727 valve body and park rod? The rods are different lengths, and won’t be able to adjust park position and get all the gears

My thoughts are that if the fluid level is high, the pump is not pumping correctly

I would put a gauge in the test ports and check the actual pressure. I had one snap the lugs off the trans pump gear, and had problems at higher rpm.

I adjusted the band on the 727 I was working on, and it didn’t help with the shift overlap. But this 727 you could feel at lower speeds. Yours is different, so I would try a band adjustment first

That is what I thought, will be a winter project. I told him to drive it for now. He has been waiting for at least 10 years to drive it

I am helping a friend with his 69 Dodge Dart. He has had the car for years, and been restoring it for years also. He had someone rebuild the original transmission, and they installed a manual valve body. I finally drove the car, and it feels to me that it has a shift overlap from 2nd to 3rd...

I have a Griner trans brake valve body,that does not have an accumulator piston in the trans, and a A&A and a CRT trans brake valve bodies that have the accumulator piston blocked. So I would try to identify the valve body

I have installed a few of those, and have not had any problems.

A&A makes a roller support for the output shaft, but the diameter of the output shaft where the bearing rides is turned down in a lathe for the bearing. I don’t know the exact dimensions, but it is not that hard to do.

This is the last one I set up, 742 housing with 4.56 gears for a street car.

I am assuming you used the same pinion depth shim with new bearings ? Did you load the ring gear when checking the pattern ? I am not really thrilled with the pattern, because I don't see a definite loaded spot on the drive side. But with used gears, you might not get a textbook pattern. I...

My first 340 build, had a bad crank. The boss at work had just put another engine in his father in laws 67 Plymouth, and the old 318 was sitting there. So I took the crank out and it was a steel crank. Had it checked, turned and balanced. I built the 340, got a used 727 converter from a friend...

The axle tube might have slipped into the housing end in some applications, but I have not seen a 8 3/4 housing like that. My neighbor narrows and repairs rear housings. I have had him cut the housing ends off, cut 1” off the tube and weld the ends back on. He chucked the ends in his lathe, and...

They 3.31 gears look the same dimensions as the 3.23 gears, even the pinions both have 13 teeth. I have one 741 housing that I will try to put together and try.

I think that you are correct, I brought the gears out to my garage, and looked at them closer. The pinion is marked 182865. 3.31 MS234 JWX 7. 30 57. The ring gear is 1828634. 3. 31 3117357234 HK4U. I had just never ran into a 3.31 set. Thank you for the info

There are part numbers stamped in, but no ratio like the 3.23 gears. 43 ring gear teeth, and 13 pinion teeth. I have never seen any for a 8 3/4 before

I was checking some parts I have in my basement, I have 2 sets of gears for a 8 3/4 rear, 741 housing. One set is 3.23, but the other set come out to 3.30, which I never heard of before. Anyone ever have or use 3.30 gears ?

Alot of the newer 8 1/4 rears were just rtv, no gasket from the factory.

If you did not disturb the pinion, and the backlash is correct, the pattern should be the same as it was.

The threads of the ring gear bolts are probably not oily, but I would clean them and use red loctite, and torque the bolts to spec. Should be left handed thread bolts. And you will have to reset the backlash .

I usually chuck the pinion in a lathe and polish the bearing surfaces to make installation easier. I just take off the coating on the new pinion. I still make sure the inner pinion bearing is a press fit. I have also done the splines, where the yoke fits if it doesn't fit correctly.

I normally don’t do it, but the AMX I race has it, and the trans I just built for my Daytona I added it. There is not very much clearance with a rear sump oil pan, and the Daytona has a engine diaper which has even less room between the engine and trans. These are race only cars.

I think you want about .060 clearance , from what I remember. I always add 727 clutch drum springs inside the factory springs to increase tension. I have one that looks like that apart now, so I cleaned up the parts so they were smooth, and going to reassemble and try it.

The weakest part of the 904 I think is the high gear clutch drum spring. I haven’t used the reverse wound spring, just the multi spring and retainer. And at least 4 high gear clutch disks, and all the clearances in specs. I also always run a manual valve body to eliminate the kickdown linkage...

Just because the tires are new, doesn’t mean they are not the problem. I have seen a lot of bad tires, very bad balance and a local tire shop mounted a new tire on a bent wheel on my friends Lexus. Around my area, a bunch of the tire guys do not understand tire balance, check their work or care...

My dad went through 2 different cone type sure grips when using Amsoil synthetic gear oil. I installed another, with the Lakewood BFL and had zero problems. That’s why I thought it was the synthetic gear oil. I have not tried synthetic with the clutch type, but if it is working for you, good