Search results for query: *

Nobody builds a harness to match what you want. It’s either a factory style new harness or a painless (Chevrolet copy cat) or build your own.

Big difference in failure rate: modular inside distributor vs MoPar mounted outside distributor. 4 years now. I still would be driving so it was not a complete failure.

So the 66’ progressively is getting worse when I step on the gas. Breaking up and hesitating and just running like dog snot. Checked timing, thru in new plugs (old ones looked great.) Ohmed out the wires, checked the cap, and nothing to write home about. Then, at 4am this morning I thought about...

Very cool stuff right there. Imagine the person who designed that switch. All because a 3 way toggle switch was not good enough. So much complexity and size to accommodate the heat. Thanks for sharing.

I hid the 4 pin HEI module and heat sink under the factory coil mount. I bypassed the ballest resistor with a soldered piece of wire in the back. It runs very well. Also, I run 0.045” plug gap. My coil is a MSD blaster coil but the one that can be mounted at any angle. The standard one need to...

I tried to find a ford ecu decal but I just could not bring myself to do it. I tried like heck but…. I guess I’m more of a purest than a rebel. lol!

Thank you. That is exactly what I needed.

Thanks Rusty. I’m stuck inside today due to being cold out and doing paperwork at home. Saw part “a” on the window sill and part “b” on the shelf and said, “hell, I can make something happen to move forward.” Then realized there’s more to it than just laying a decal down.

Oh great! That decal is possibly on the correct side but up side down. Ugh!

Picture below is of a ECU decal I recently bought on line and 2 ecu I purchased from #halifaxhops. On my 72’ 340 Demon which side does the decal go? On the face side where the plug is on the left or the side the plug is on the right. My memory says the plug on the left. Decal is facing the...

What he said and check your grounds for engine to battery and engine to chassis. Chassis to battery. Check your fire wall block connection. Make sure the connection for the wires are clean and in good contact. It’s a very simple system that can go silly when dirty.

Time to buy a new harness. Probably was cut off long time ago for aftermarket radio or graphic equalizer. Yea! That was a thing.

Ray needs his own brand. lol! “Ray brand”. ️

That appears to be a Mopar distributor that some one made an adapter heat sink for a HEI gm ignition module. It may be a professional one that is missing the cover.

My humble opinion is for the cost of. New unit- buy it. After going thru removing the old one, new gasket and possibly a ring plus a sock and it may or may not work plus after treating it.. what do you do to protect it from this crap fuel. It will just rust / corrode up again in a very short...

Yes. Great idea! We have a baby grand piano in our living room. The lady who tunes it once a year uses her I phone. She can duplicate any key and tone. I don’t play so I do not follow. Well- I can play chopsticks. lol! So if they have that program you know there are others. Syleng1

Where is the smoke pod? I always seem to let the smoke out of those and always wondered where it came from. :lol: Nice job on this detailed process. Simple but delicate at the same time.

One of the ways the FBI verifies counterfeit bills easily. Most thieves use the wrong paper - many different checks. Color, thickness, cotton count. Texture. So much goes into our money. It probably costs more than it’s worth.

Now that’s the answer right there! The man is a wealth of info. Syleng1

Small flat blade pocket screw driver works. Like 3/32” wide.On the back of the terminal is a small tab you need to press down to slip out the terminal.kinda like this one but does not need to be exact.

Nice! Clean and looks like a factory built part. Good job! Syleng1

Hey Dan, is that one adjustable on the back side? I personally have the black square box factory one in my 66 but the Internals are modern electronics. I think it came from Classic industries. Like $70 Good luck on your quest OP! Syleng1

You have no idea how many people ask that same question. If most used the search feature - that answer is there. It’s never about not “helping a brother out.” It about people asking the same question almost daily.

Just run the standard ge194 bulbs in clear and call it a day. “Want to be different” you say?” Just replace them all and get them all to work. 9out of 10 old cars have light bulbs out and during the day nobody sees them anyhow. Lol! Syleng1

Easy guys- he has only 42 posts. He may not recognize your sarcasm. I mean you’re 100% correct and this topic has been covered 1bazillion times already. Just check search feature. LMAO. Syleng1

Drop the steering column by removing the u- strap under the dash board. Remove the cluster screws and switches per the factory service manual. Take it out a bit and disconnect the speedometer cable and electrical plugs - take pictures of the process for reassembly. Some of the speedometer cables...

HEI 4 pin. Wider plug gap (when you use the HEI coil) no ballast resistors, direct 12vdc and best of all runs better / better fuel mileage. Syleng1

That’s cool stuff right there. The lines and number even come close to matching the dash. I bet that was dealer installed. Thank you for sharing. Syleng1

Side note: dependent on part number- some are only made to be used vertically and some work in any position. Some have a built in resistor and some made for specific manufacture and resistors. Part numbers mean everything LOL!

Also let’s not forget… chrysler had many vendors for the same part. Each vendor probably had a guaranteed output. All the parts assembled the same. But one company stated theirs was a 37amp output and yet company B said theirs would do 50amps. (Not 50 all day long but marketing highlighted it...