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Left and right are pretty obvious due to rebound bumper position. What does the directions read?

Yup! More “I’ve never done it before.” But I know you can not do it that way key board warriors. You pegged it RRR!

Chicken or egg debate now. The springs are shot and drooping. If you replace with even MP springs the *** end will go up just because of the new springs. Trying to predict the height based off old junk springs is like guessing how many worms are under the grass. Unless you have psychic powers...

Just buy new springs assemblies and call it a day. Your bushings are dry and shot if all original. Regardless of low mileage. They have been holding up that car for 50 years.

I’ve used a Oxy act torch with great results. Just remember to let it naturally cool on its own. No water. I also only took it to dark orange (the point when it will bend with a little arm strength) not bright orange. They start to stretch and loose their strength at that point. Syleng1

I did the Borgeson box in my 66 about 3 years ago now. Different spline that Ma MoPar. Best upgrade so far. FYI

Yes - “word out.”

Pump, pulleys and brackets are specific and all work together along with hoses.

Running one behind my 317hp 273 in the Barracuda. They really are stout rear ends. Remember anything will break if you are stupid enough. Back in the 80’s when I drove stupid… we did not care what case was in the 83/4 as long as we had an 8-3/4. The goal was a Dana 60. That was the perfect...

remeber there are 2 sockets. Large and small ball joint. I have one snap on - I think small. I will get the number when I get to work in about an hour for you. The other side is one number before or after. Syleng1

Factory manual cars came with a school bus sized steering wheel in the 60’s. Narrow tires and full of air all help. Adjusting the caster takes some of the load off the pivot axis. That helps as well.

lol! Poly bushings are noisy. They may last longer than the factory bushings - 50 years on my last set of bushing (66 Barracuda)from the factory I guess is not good enough. Sorry OP. I don’t mean to take away from your question. I understand wanting to not do this again but the Moog style...

Just twist the cap counter clockwise (may be clock wise ) only about 1/4 turn and it comes right off

As a professional welder, I like the idea BUT welding changes the metal. It will be harder in some areas and softer in others. With that said, dependent on what you weld could effect the torsional twist all control arms face going up and down and shifting body roll. It’s why those expensive...

I am “almost” 100% certain the first Borgeson boxes were actually a steering gear adapted for a,b e bodies. That’s where the issues were. The ones available now are made for our cars. I had 0 line up issues input or output shafts to factory parts and only had to cut back my steering shaft for...

Not to Hijack RRR thread but what pulley are you talking about? I have the factory 66’ pump on my 273 with the factory pulley and cast iron water pump . The lines Bergman sells screwed directly to the pump and box and honestly my steering work great. No troubles or belt slip. Not tough to steer...

Also, I found PB blaster is better at rust than WD-40. As for that nut, it is on there. Try to use a socket with no adapter or extensions. Those loose some of the impacts strength. The arm may or may not fall off either. A few taps with the hammer on the pitman arm itself can pop it loose from...

I have the Borgeson unit on the 66’ Barracuda with the 273 and Doug’s headers. A bunch lighter and with the six you have way more room than a V8 but steering is amazing and I am running the stock 273 pump. I bought their lines and it screwed right in. I added a cooler to the return line but...

Length for one. Second is the fact the 66’ and older has no crash collapse feature. It is a solid shaft. I bet it can be done but not just drop and play. As for a flamming river- I believe that is based on a gm column. I’ve only seen those in the comic books so I’ve never worked with one...

Upper one in picture is stock 63-66 Lower one has been modified 63-66 for dual exhaust. Both are considered “early A”

You need to measure from the center pin to the centerline of the front eyelet bolt hole and the center pin to the rear center hole. That and how many leaves there are will help narrow down your mystery.

One is a factory style and one is an aftermarket approach to solving the install in your driveway approach.

What he said.

Back in the day- cotter pins were installed in the vent hole. It vibrated and kept the hole free from dirt and spiders / bugs clogging the vent up and causing seals to leak. It looks like that cotter pin is suspended in RTV?!? Syleng1

Firm feel when they rebuilt my unit was a small sector stage 2. I waited about 6 weeks for the rebuild. I loved it but still felt like an old car driving experience. It also kept getting very hot from the headers and over heating my power steering pump causing me grief. I went recently to the...

Ooooh! I just upgrade to “platinum.” You silly “gold” people. So simple. LMAO!

He can’t be that “old” if he used “googler”

Good to know. I am running a standard power steering oil from NAPA. I do not believe my install instructions say anything about a specific fluid, let alone a synthetic. I’m pretty good about following directions like that. But I am humble enough to admit maybe I missed it. Either way- I will...

I’ve got the Borgeson box with my factory pump on the 273 in the barracuda. I added a small ps return line cooler. All I can saw is it works amazing. No troubles at idle or high speed. But my pump does become noisy (strange) at low speed parking lot maneuvering. Like pulling into a car show and...

No engine? Syleng1