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Silly question- but do you have the tail end of the engine/ trans up high enough? It looks like your tail end is sitting quite low which is also throwing off your geometry. Also is the engine too far forward? Mounts not on correctly will put the engine forward. Measure the trans cross member...

I’m with just about everyone here- go for it. Like they say (whom ever “everyone is) nothing ventured nothing gained. Syleng1

Neither are cold starts.

Going with the Borgeson box- lightens the car about 15lbs and much smaller than factory box. The other stuff I cannot speak about. The Borgeson box is amazing. Switching over my Demon shortly and my 66 273 barracuda with Doug’s- made a huge difference in power steering fluid temps and room. Good...

Idle till warmed up to at least 140-150 f degrees. There are many camps on get in and go all the way to fully warm plus 10mins. I think sitting there in a garage and never driving is worse than all the above.

More than 3hp. But less then 700hp

I’m not a fan (no pun intended) of aluminum radiator's. Copper is expensive but worth the extra cost. Your not pushing that much HP (hp=heat) also does your car have a 22” radiator opening or a 26”? I’ve never opened up a radiator support before - but have been told the extra 4” matters...

I feel your squealing pain. The 273 in my Barracuda with factory cast iron water pump and the wide power steering belt- got ac and nothing lined up. The aftermarket ac parts said alternator, ac and fan off one bracket (single belt) . Squealed every time you romped on the gas or ac engaged. I...

I’ve got to ask- what year “HEMI” are you talking about? Maybe a few more details will catch the right people’s attention.

YUP!

Other option is to go hydroboost that runs off power steering pump pressure. Also allows you to run any camshaft you want. Expensive compared to the factory booster BUT gives you a lot more room. Electric PS under the dash is also the newest craze.

Honestly - every one is at some level. At one time what I did what others said was stupid. Now people ask me how to do it. This may be the quickest way for the builder to get from point A to point B. Finish the car and try to move it along. Average Chevy guy is like “wow!” Average Mopar guy is...

Quick question is the engine sitting in the right spot… correct mounts? Those manifolds look a tad low like the engine needs to go up and the steering will clear.

The guy I use here in CT is like $400.00 He also squares the back of the block (trans mounting surface) to the crank centerline.

Yes- that’s how I’d do it. Cuts down on the possible scratches too! Cover all sharp corners with tape or foam.

This sounds like an episode of “Engine Masters.” Lol! They did a whole thing on those spacers.

I believe a lot of what the original poster is talking about is due to technology. Back in the 80’s when I had my first cars it was a lot of money to make car my parents let me use (1972 Dodge Demon 340/3speed stick) to go fast. Now kids go buy a Subaru, reprogram for extra ponies and run the...

30 degrees of timing seems a bit low. AF ratio is not bad. I will ask like above- what’s your cam dialed in at? It also may be a small cam with narrow lobe separation.

To the OP: it seems you are frustrated with replacing parts. I’m not sure of your length of being in this hobby or maybe you don’t understand that most of these cars / parts are over 50 years old and have been handled by many people in their day. Even new parts today suck. Let along 60-70’s...

Soooo, just a thought. Weld up all the holes and then re drill up 1/2” or what the difference is. A lot of these conversions are done in a private persons garage using what ever parts and knowledge they had at that time. What worked for one person may not be to the standards of the next. That is...

The engine is lifted to compensate for torque steer. :lol:

All your parts are sitting off the coast of Cali waiting on containerships. China flu is to blame. trucking companies (the ones left) are over booked so there is no where to put the containers once off loaded. 2nd the crews on these ships are from many many countries with no China flu testing...

Thanks! George Jets! I don’t want to steel (get it- steel like head gaskets- I crack my self up) RRR’s thread. I appreciate the help. Joe

RRR, heat and cold, heat and cold. Would those cycles loosen up / leak over time? Copper is used on 2 cycle heads all the time but air cooled. I’m looking for thin head gaskets for 318 I’m building. All .038” or more. Just my thoughts.

it’s is all for crash purposes. Controls the rate of compression in a forward hit.

Interesting article- thanks for sharing.

I am running a Tanks Inc factory tank with the electric fuel pump int the tank for my FI tech fuel injection. Sorry not carbureted but love the fact I never run out of fuel pressure/flow.

If it works run with it. Breather and pcv doesn’t care what side of the engine they work on as long as ones on one side and the other the other. Joe

Going thru this myself right now. 1) there is no modern “flat tappet cam.” That is 100 year old technology. But with that said use an oil with lots of zinc. I like Rotella T 1300 ppm of zinc. Joe Gibbs oil is also good but really expensive. Or a good oil and zinc additive. 2) cam break in...

Wow! really tight, i'd be running a p/s cooler for longevity. Thanks for the info. I wonder even with "modern technology" why did ma MoPar build such a large p/s box to begin with. Those new boxes are smaller but very simular internally. Why did she build the originals so big and truck like...