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steel rockers does not equal high rpm. Sorry man but you need those Harland sharps

Man that plug is pretty important. It routes the oil thru the filter. Did the last guy not have it in there or what?

I swear I fed a 318 magnum 6 ft. of 1/4” rope before it locked it up

I run a felpro 1008 to 15 lbs of boost for thousands of miles

Maybe but I have doubts. It was a strong double roller and I had a v6 tensioner. I’ll check for slop. Cam is .490” 218/218 115 Lsa. Fairly mild cam. I think I floated the valves. These are EQ heads. Have about 2000 miles on this engine. Zero issues.

Not sure how because I have a pathetic 8.5:1 compression. A .039 gasket, pistons were down the cylinder .047” and my cam isn’t even that large. Barely .5” lift

No compression on 4 cylinders. Valves touched pistons on 6 cylinders. 2 survived. Must have floated the valves.

I pulled 5 plugs that are easy to get to. 3 require loosening exhaust. They looked ok. E85 keeps everything too clean it’s hard to see much. Gaps are good. I think the center post boot may have slipped off while under that hard pull. Going to shove a scope in it this weekend. You’d think putting...

Don’t doubt the worst but it didn’t make any scary noises and e85 is helpful. Bottom end is oem. No strange noises at the crankcase or oil separator. No i left it alone and changed the cap and rotor. The oil pump drive gear is pinned so no worry about it ever slipping. I set #1 to tdc...

That’s my last resort. Should start on its own tho. Even after sitting. I’ve thought to change the oil as well. May have a ton of alcohol in there I can’t tell. It hasn’t been mixed up from cranking but stick looks normal.

Was pulling very hard up a hill. Came over the other side and stalled at the stoplight 1/4 mile down. Found I Melted the center post on the distributor. Engine is in sig. 5.2 turbo, Megasquirt efi, e85. Changed all plug wires and the coil and the cap and rotor So I’ve never gotten it to start...

If you use NOX Rust, you can leave it outside in the shed

273 with mag heads at .060 quench. Magnum EFI.

I know! I’m so relieved. Did not want to take the pan off at all. I think I’ll leave it sealed up down there and check the crank thrust bearing externally instead. I have a nice starret gauge. Thanks for the advice!

Jacked it up and crawled under while running and found it. No gasket on the oil filter adapter lol. Pan must be solid.

I’ve had major thrust bearing problems in the past and wanted peace of mind. Maybe go as far as pull the caps and check the bearings. I did retorque the pan and no luck slowing it down. It starts leaking after about 1 minute on a cold engine. It’s not the sending unit. I looked around with a...

I didn’t use any sealer except the corners. Need to take the pan off and check the thrust bearing and also retorque all crank and rod bolts. So I wanted as much break-in run time as possible on it before taking the pan off. Used a 1 piece seal tho. Maybe the corner is leaking, I agree.it leaks...

I agreed but it’s beading up and dripping right there. My guess is it’s coming from farther back. Bolts are torqued

The heavy cam lube just dissolves and becomes the break in oil within minutes. Instant fire-up is what’s necessary.

I have a nasty leak on my new Mildon at the rails in the back. Sucks. Any tips on a quick repair?

Plus, all engines have different efficiencies at different rpm.

Im a similar issue. I’m running an all roller 318 w/ turbo. Pushrod oiling. Now I went to a high volume pump but don’t think it was ever my converter. My pressures were always low enough. I think I had an oiling issue

Don’t have an oil heater yet but those do both work well. Trying to get E85 to light off on a multiple guess efi tune.

I’ve been wiping out the thrust bearing with this combo for way too long. I think I have it solved. But I’ve been getting my *** kicked by a core plug heater.

It’s all I have to do. I’m on the 3rd crank, second block, and second torque converter. I just need to put the block heater in for the fourth time and then I can fire it up again. Be cool

To hell with trusting the speedometer and your math. Use a GPS if you suspect a problem.

My first thought is why are you running a large coil with a ballast resistor?

That thrust bearing is visually over .015” wear.

Depending on aftermarket grooves in cams journals and bearings, when engine isn’t running, oil isn’t supplied to the top end, giving you higher pressure when priming. Also, when priming the engine would always be colder.