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They give you a paper pattern to use with a drill press. They also include plastic centric rings to center the rotor,in case your stud holes are loose.

Here is picture of my rotor drilled and picture of box with part numbers

You use the hubs off your drums and they recommend longer studs.

You can just get the adapters from scarebird and the rest thru parts store. The calipers are 90's chevy celebrity.. They will tell you everything you will need. 1965-72 Dodge, Plymouth "A" body, with 10" drums I'm doing my 63 dart this weekend...9 in drums but similiar setup I had the rotors...

Buy one or make one out of your old one... Mopar '62 -'70 Adjustable Master Cylinder Push Rod

If you were trying to get your car home and broke...as temporary fix... What you got to lose,your fringing brakes or your life.

If you willing to pay shipping, I sent you this one free...came with my 74 dart when I bought it a few years ago. ...looks reman....pm me.

Well, I do not know but hope this helps. Here is a picture of a b body setup. Linkage mount inside to a stationary bolt and below the Linkage switch goes to brake pedal...mount holes look different as well. Of course brake lines are on wrong side but easy swap to do with right one.

Ya what he said keep whacking it off with plenty lubrication till done !!! I prefer cut heads with Dykes though.......

Look at this way if the drum is worn you will have a ridge on inside where the shoes do not hit...if you can move it back and forth some, the shoe are hitting the ridge and will not come off....

I pry the hold down pins out enough with a small screw driver to get some dykes under it and cut the heads off and be done with it. Hardware kit will be in order anyway !!!

Spray penetration oil on all studs too while turning the drum to get the most you can... The back of the drum can rust to the axle face !!! If the drum move in and out some without coming off then cut the hold down pins like krazykuda suggested.

Pm KnuckleDuster he has one on his Duster.

Jarhead does not know how to make friends and 72 spindles only work with kelsey hayes.....

Well Rob.Once again I agree with ya ! Just placed my order.

Just a few dollars more and John at dillingerchassis.com would sent you tubular arms with new bushings and ball joints...

I just bought a used setup for my 63 dart.Did you drill your rotors yourself? I was thinking of using a B-body disc brake backing plate ,so not to have the rotor exposed on the back side.... Great job!!! What master cylinder and proportioning valve did you use?

Take your old one to a motorcycle shop and have them make you one. Martin

I do not think it would be worth adapting.You want the rotor to be spinning and set your cutting bits at just touching the rotor and then set the feed motor to start feed out.If That makes any sense... Seeing your machine and the pulley setup only the top spins. Man, You probably can make some...

I run a small shop.I own a brake lathe and have never had a problem machining a drilled or slotted or factory rotor....If I have the adapter to chuck it up to my lathe,you got a machined rotor. Lathe cuts from the sides,when spinning and feeds out from inside of rotor surface to the very outer...

Good point!!! How far does your pedal go down,is the pedal all the way up or can you move further up. Start the car and listen for a vacuum leak from behind the booster... TXDart