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Belt length or distance from the crank pulley makes zero difference to the alternator or its function. The amount of belt contact on the pulley does though.

I wouldn’t use both on the front and back under the intake. Always had great results using only the RTV and getting the intake on immediately. Set the intake on and see what the gap is, then put a bead of RTV higher than that.

5.9 fan is completely different and won’t work on a V belt water pump. When I swapped over from electric cooling I pulled the fan and clutch of an 80’s ? Ford truck and it worked out great. (15 bucks if I recall) Those mounting bolt spots and shaft diameter are pretty standard. About an inch...

Swap a Magnum engine into your classic Mopar |

You will probably need to grind off one of the bosses on the drivers side of the block, as it interferes with some headers. Test fit after the heads are on and before the motor goes in and you will see it. Also if using the stock 904 converter you will need the magnum flex plate for the right...

Probably not. :D It was probably one of the 4 cylinders. Hughes told me, but it’s been years.

Just a FYI Hughes sells a lock and retainer set that has more lock to stem seal clearance. Those 1110 springs and that retainer and lock set is what I used with my .512 lift cam. The lock to guide isn’t the issue. Locks to stem seal is. The retainers and locks are from the 2.2 V6 motor and give...

Whatever you decide needs to be high pressure line, but I’m not sure I would use rubber even then. I used 3/8 nylon 12 high pressure line even though I don’t run efi. This is what I used for my supply and return both and has a 530 psi working capability and a 1,200 lb. burst rating. It may seem...

Those custom wires are never good enough so I like to make my own. I have been known to pull the distributor and intermediate shaft and put it back together “wrong” just so I could reorient the plug wires or vacuum can where I want them. Gotta find something to do outside when the wife drinks ya...

You/I can see that they are the deep brass plugs with the wide shoulder so depth isn’t an issue like with the shallow shoulder plugs. I agree that a little deeper is (book) correct but under his specific circumstances he’s fine like it is because of the wider shouldered plugs.

He has the deep brass plugs so flush is fine and really common. He also mentioned the motor is already in, which means a pain to get to. For the super minimal issue he has, I would advise to not mess with them or things could get worse fast. If the motor wasn’t in yet it might be worth doing...

Oh, and lots of core plugs will stop leaking after a little run time. (Like by the time it’s actually timed and ready to drive.) If it doesn’t stop put a 1/2 tube of Alumaseal in it and that will do it. You can even drain and refill after the leaks stop if you like.

If it makes you feel better about the drive gear, here’s a pic of someone else’s that had the same question. Distributor gear alignment question

Yep, pull the distributor and turn it 180 then drop it back in. Also know that it is just too damn east to get plug wires 5 and 7 reversed. (Chk your firing order) A person can put the engine on TDC but have it on the exhaust stroke instead of the intake stroke. If for example you pull the #1...

Just a FYI, it is recommended to not mess with the ports on CH318A heads except for a port match as they flow well already. 230 cfm if I remember correctly. I’m running 96 5.9 with the CH318B heads and small port Edelbrock dual plane with a Holley 770 Street Avenger. Mild cam and Hughes springs...

All this and not one explanation on his pulleys question?

As far as I know there haven’t been any issues with the accel modules, but a stock factory repplacement would also be fine. No point in paying extra for the yellow lettering.:D

Been running an 8 pin HEI setup with all it’s weatherpak connectors without a single problem for years in my daily driver. Running a stock recurved and mechanical advance limited distributor at 18 initial and 34 total all in by 2500 rpms. I like the fact that if needed I can get a replacement...

Not on a factory magnum. The flex plate and harmonic balancer are both weighted. I have a 5.9 and A500 and went through all that.

The pulleys yes, but an LA balancer does not work on a factory Magnum as the balancing weights are different.

I did almost exactly this with a 1996 5.9 with 96k on it. Cylinders were perfect as were the bearings. Barely even any marking showing on the bearings. I wanted a reliable driver and used an Oregon cam 214/224 split duration on a 110 center. Used the stock roller lifter, Hughes 1110 springs and...

Makes sense. I thought that might be it, but wasn't using it anyway so it wasn't important until it came up here. Thanks.

I did a quick image search but can't find a pic of it. (non of them had it) It is a single wire connection that has a pin in the center and had a squeeze to release type end on it. I know I'm not confusing it with another motor because I just saw it again when I pulled to header on that side to...

1996 5.9 out of a Ram 1500.

My Magnum has a temp sensor in the passenger side of the block under the manifold. I just left it in there unplugged, and used an intake temp sensor for an aftermarket gauge. The only block off plate used is the LA style timing cover fuel pump mounting point.

I'm sorry, I don't remember as it's been years. I know I ordered it for the small block Mopar LA series though, because the Wife's 318 car needed it before mine did so there it went.

I'm running a double roller set made for the 360 in my Magnum with the LA cover and no issue's with it at all. Also running the slinger and the drip tab both. It went together just like it was a 360LA.

Yep, the medium weight. I just did the same thing and the link Bobzilla posted is when I asked.

My car was an original 318 car and it isn't near that long. (Even with the pigstail curl out of the firewall.)

I used the 2 barrel bracket and it works just fine. What it takes is to bend the bracket into a more upright position and change the angle of the flat where the cable clamp is. (a big Crecent wrench helps to bend it) But then I had to do what I always do and take it a step farther into "One off"...