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Like I was saying earlier the dizzy it's the only thing that I haven't outright changed in this whole process Maybe it could be the source of my inconsistency in the ignition circuit

Btw distributor in the car is just a cheapie pro-form for an rb Maybe it could be the cause of all my issues from the start I'm with you I hate to parts change but it may be worth the chance as I'd like to make it to the show and shine here in town next Saturday seeing I've missed the last two

That could be the case Like I said I'm not very talented when it comes to electronics so pardon my ignorance when I may not seem to know too much That's why I kind of followed the exact Module and coil slant6dan had in that post It could be my dizzy is not compatible with the parts I...

You may be right I started this HEI conversion with the idea that it would be a cheep-ish solution to my irregular ignition problems I was having with the Mopar electronic ignition Come to think of it the only part I didn't change out this whole time was the distributor.... I did change the...

All of the tests listed above passed I've also replaced relay and ignition module and still the same issue Also ran a wire for ground to battery in trunk as well just to double check grounds are good Honestly stumped at this point Could it have anything to do with the ignition coil even...

I will try all these when I get home from work tonight thank you very much!!

I got the idea from slant6dans post on the slant forums... Supposedly makes sure you have solid voltage at all times, Relay is brand new as well but also could be suspect as well I suppose Here's the post where I got the idea HEI Electronic Ignition Retrofit How-To - Slant Six Forum

It is grounded via the aluminum heat sink and I also have a ground wire going from one mounting bolt to the alternator case but I can try to make sure both bolts are grounded. Module is brand new out of the box although I know with electronic parts that doesn't always mean good

So I recently hooked up gm style hei on my duster with 440 big block due to being tired of dealing with the Mopar electronic ignition parts and dealing with old wiring as well so I included a relay to bypass a lot of the old wiring as well When I went to start I had no spark When I took out...

first off thank you so much for your help its really been a lifesaver as electrical is the one thing i truely struggle with, and i really appreciate the help, anyways, fuseable link is still good when i went to plug my meter into the bulkhead connector i noticed my headlights flicker so i just...

no arcs or smells that ive noticed at all no

first off i shouldve said when i pulled the starter i noticed one of the terminals had turned and ground out on the block, ive fixed that and now im trying to go through your list, quick question, with my multimeter i stabbed the wire on both ends of the fuseable link as it is wired up in the...

hey just want to say thanks in advance to everyone, im experiencing some electrical problems, car is a 72 duster, with a big block and chrysler electronic ignition, i pulled the motor this spring to deal with some pesky leaks but no electrical problems before and just recently reinstalled it in...

i have one of the proform kits in my 512, revs to 7k no problem havent even touched distributer yet seeing i just got car running a few weeks before winter, overall seems like a good value to me, time will tell

id imagine lmao

not to hijack the thread but ive been kinda toying with the idea of going for the whole late 70s early 80s street machine look, but modern performance, and always thought the accel super coil with yellow wires would help pull that look off.... any opinion on the accel super coil? junk? good? the...

my motor should be about 190 cranking psi so guess i better start looking into it lol thanks rusty!

about what compression level, or dynamic compression level would you say a high output coil would be necessary? just a guesstimate for kicks

something to do with your charging system like others have stated