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Thanks for the info, that's good to know. I suppose that top bushing can be pressed out and an A body one pressed in

Does anyone know, will these shocks work on the back of an a body station wagon especially if it is lifted up a little bit higher than stock?

Glad you got it fixed. Have you got any pictures of it? Just be on the lookout for other Rusty areas on your car like where the upper control arms mount to the frames.

I wish you were nearby as I would love to work on the car with you and show you some little things that I know how to do. That left hand side of the crossmember needs to be chiseled out, or drilled out away from the body parts and then a new one, or used one, needs to be spot welded back into...

I wish I had a parts car here with a good crossmember to cut out and send to you. The one you have there is not repairable as you can see it's rusted out fairly badly and will never be strong enough of someone tries to weld a patch in it. Hopefully someone local has one or someone can send you...

It sounds like the torsion bar just twisted in the crossmember. The bar itself is probably not broken, but it rusted around the weld in the crossmember enough that it came loose. If you have the wheel off and the shock absorber disconnected, can you move the control arms up and down with little...

That sounds excellent. I read through the posts and all of your troubles with the SS lead springs. Luckily, the used ones that I purchased and put in with 7 1/4 rear for very well. Did you drive the car yet to see how it feels and handles?

Don't use grease. It will break down the rubber in the bushing. Use a silicone based lubricant if you need to install. Otherwise, it isn't needed.

Weld the ends of the frame connecter to the frames and then use a bonding material to bind them to the floor. A lot of body shops will bond sheet metal together. Can't you just tack them to the floor and use something with an epoxy based to bond them to the floor?

Already welded it and installed and got the car on the ground.

The hacksaw method seem to work best. I broke the threads off of the one leaf spring shackle and I need to see if I can weld part of a bolt onto the end of the shackle this morning.

Hey Cuda. I like that idea that seems simple enough. I'm going to try it first.

since I live in a gated community and am working in my driveway, I think I will keep the burning idea on hold and work at drilling it out and loosing it it up with a knife and chisel.

Thank you Tadams. Unfortunately, I have tried that already with PB Blaster and they are all still stuck. I'm thinking about taking the drill bit in drilling out the bushing with as many times as it takes to get enough of the bushing out of there that I can cut it out with a knife.

Don't have a torch here, and I don't have any tubing that would fit inside the diameter of the whole were the bushing is to help facilitated through. Are they normally this tough to get out?

So, if the title didn't already explained it to you, I need help removing my fifty year old leaf spring bushings from the leaf springs at home without a hydraulic press. Before I interject my ideas I am open to listening to ideas from others. Thank you in advance.

I ended up welding some pieces of leaf spring to the sides of the frame connectors to get them to fit in there tightly. I had a busted leaf spring on one of the cars and it was the right thickness so it worked.

Mopowers that is a really good idea and thanks for sharing, but right now I'm past that stage. Maybe on the next car.

The Gap is a quarter inch. I will just find some metal around here to put alongside the frame connector inside the rail.

I did it that way for strength. The frame rails of the car don't lie horizontally they stand vertically. Also, I can weld more floor into the frame rail this way. I saw pictures on here of other guys doing it that way but it never said specifically how it was welded inside the frame rail. It is...

I already have the 2x3 rectangular tube slid vertically inside the frame rail. It's going to get welded on the inside one way or another. Floor is already cut, too.

I'm in the process of putting 2x3 x .125 rectangular steel tubing between the front sub frame and rear sub frame and I'm installing it vertically and sliding it into the rear frame rail. My question is, since it is not a tight fit inside the rear frame rail, are you guys shimming it with Steel...

I should have said that I always make my own and weld them in.

The bolt in frame connectors aren't worth a crap unless you're going to weld them in.

Neve rmind. I just answered my own question. The F-body front segment is 4 inches longer than the A-body and the rear is 1 inch shorter. Thanks http://www.dippy.org/forum2/index.php?topic=209.0

Someone near me has some rear leaf springs for an F-body Aspen/Volare for sale that are new, but wants only $50 for them. Will they fit an A-body? How different are they?

What kind of frame connectors do you have; welded-in or bolted in? If bolted in, they aren't doing any good and my be doing some harm. What size frame connectors are ty? Do they run through the floors at all? What are you doing to get these cracks in the body anyway? Pulling wheelies...