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When I ever get around to it, if I find a compact, semi simple solution I'll start a thread on it. First, finish building my new engine! Thanks all

Good info. Thank you. I know we have stepped all over the op's post here (sorry op!) so I will start a new thread when the time comes. The good news is I am already running 134, I installed a parallel flow condenser when I rebuilt the system back in 2008. Too bad the custom lines I had crimped...

My system currently works fine. What I do want, when I remove my current 273 w/ rv compressor and replace it with the 360 mag, w sanden compressor I am currently building, is to get rid of the big ugly valve currently on the car and replace it with something more aestheticly pleasing to the eye...

Thanks Charlie. The guy who I talked to a few years back made it sound as though it was a common and fairly straight forward process. If it is not, maybe I can convert it to the type of valve my 1980 Lebaron M body uses. It is all in one block against the firewall and is much cleaner under the hood.

Charlie, do you know what other mods are necessary? I don't want to step on the op's post but am very interested. 67dart273, funny you should mention it. The txv in our Lennox heat pump is about to cost us $1000 or there abouts... We are leaning toward just installing a new system.

If memory serves you can get rid of the txv valve altogether and use a simple expansion (orifice tube I think it is called) valve like modern cars use. I think it was the guy who owns Polar Bear AC that was telling me about it. I want to convert mine when I change the compressor over from rv...

Love it. Hope to get to my interior next year. Gonna squirrel that one away for then!

I did a 134 swap on my old r12 system. After upgrading the condensor to a parallel flow type, rebuilding the compressor (rv2 types are beasts with their own oil pumps, very stout) having new lines made, new receiver dryer it worked well, until the seal pack in the front of the compressor gave...

I have got some STUCK A$$ bolts out using the wax trick and a propane torch. I think you'll like it.

When they are that rusted heat sometimes works. Get a candle and when the area is hot melt some wax into the joint. Sometimes it will wick down into the threads and help to loosen things up.

I don't use any sealant on the gaskets. Ive never seen the fsm call for any. No leaks yet.

Huh, a couple of possibilities here. I'd have never thought to look here. Thanks. List: Search for 'coolant recovery tank - universal' | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Wanting the same solution. Subscribed.

Really no. The only thing to pay attention to is if you are using the water valve, that should be the "hot" side. B/c of the placement of the water valve, the pass side barb is easier to route the hose as it isn't crossing the outlet hose. Other than that it doesn't matter much. Best, CE

Yes that is correct. Or at least that is exactly how my 68 val is done. Looks exactly like your pic too. It also stands to reason because the inlet side of the heater core (passenger side barb) will take its water from where it is the hottest, which is the intake manifold just before the water...

Interesting read. Thanks!

Yeah, would really like to see completed hose routing. Basically everything under the hood. I had custom hoses made for mine that all attached from the same side of the compressor so that I could unbolt the compressor and lay it off to the side without discharging the system. I'd like to see if...

I'm guessing that the 73 had an RV type compressor pump. If so, I'd consider replacing it with a modern Sanden type. Not that the RVs weren't good pumps, they are. But they're heavy! And getting harder to find parts for, like the front seal. As for the interior, I'd go with the stock heater...

If you're sure it isn't just running noise, some of those sanden units make a rattling pump noise when they are running, I'd pull it and take it back. Usually new and rebuilt pumps come with oil in them, or tell you how much oil to add. As mentioned already make sure you have done/verified...

Just bookmarked this post for the part nos. Cool.

Oh and Polar Bear Inc. is in Florida Polar Bear Inc. Webstore

You could also find a donor car with a/c and remove the system from it. The racers out there are always pulling the a/c out of their cars and are pretty happy to give the stuff away. If you need it NOW then as mentioned, Classic A/C is your friend. If you have time, put a wanted ad over in that...