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Got it thanks. Yeah this time around I'm giving it a little more ring gap. I think too hot of plugs and too much timing to start out were my culprits. Hopefully I've learned my lesson. I don't think I screwed up on the air fuels though. Let me know if you ever get to Nashville and I'll let...

Thanks for that real world advice. What was the combo? Were you running boost?

No I'm not. I would hope they aren't too high since I'm spraying the water meth but no way of knowing right now.

No updates yet. Waiting on machine shop. Apparently everyone wants there junk fixed this time of year.

Yes, pulled the engine on Saturday. 7 of the 8 pistons were damaged but luckily the heads still look good and none of the cylinders appear to be hurt. The short block is at the machine shop. As long as the bearings all still look good and check out I'll just be putting in new pistons and...

Yep, by the way I already have an AFR gauge.

Rhett, I agree completely. I know I might be leaving a little power on the table by running 23* locked but as I've mentioned..... I'm basically as fast as I can go with my current roll bar. To answer an earlier questions. This car gets driven on the street all the time. 1,000 miles at drag...

HI I'M THE OP. I'm a younger guy and learning boost. Are you calling me a dinosaur? I don't understand why you seem pissed at me in your post. I've never looked into a 6AL-2 but I will now.

Also at the price of the MSD 7720 and 7730, couldn't I just save my pennies and go to a full blown Holley HP Multiport Fuel injection system? I know it's more money but..... MSD Power Grid 7 Ignition Boxes 7720 MSD Power Grid System Controllers 7730

I see what you are saying. I wasn't trying to sound like an A hole. I actually love tuning and learning more about how to make cars faster. Although, right now I'm knocking on the door of a 9.99 pass which would be illegal since my car only has a 6 point roll bar. I should have built a full...

Yes that's what I'm thinking. Boost is only controlled with the pulley on the Procharger. Right now with the current pulley makes 9-10 lbs depending on weather. I do have a boost gauge on the cowl.

Not sure I'm really giving up any power with the timing locked out. This procharger starts making boost at 3,000 RPM. I leave the line at 3,000 RPM. It's been 6.42 @ 107 MPH in the 1/8. The car has no weight taken out and full interior, weighs 3,600 with me in it. I'm making decent power I...

Correct. It's locked out at 23 meaning 23 at idle and 23 at 6,500 RPM.

Ignition is an MDS Digital 6 AL with a pro billet distributor and a blaster 2 coil. I now have the ignition locked out at 23*.

Nothing failed. When I got home I was able to adjust the bands and it has been great ever since.

30% Methanol 70% distilled water. Yes, I know now that 27 was too much. I obviously didn't know that then... this will be an expensive learning process. This is my first time dealing with boost.

Also, Just FYI, I'm running a water/Meth injection instead of an intercooler.

These are CP Carrillo forged Boost spec pistons. Was running 27* of timing during drag week. When I saw signs of detonation I dropped that back to 23*. It seems very happy at 23*. I think I was also running too hot of plugs? During drag week I ran NGK BKRE6-11 plugs which is a 6 heat range...

Thanks for the reply guys. Bore scoped again last night and found a chunk of #5 piston is gone. See picture below. Well, regardless of what happened I'm pulling the engine this weekend. I did Drag Week this year with this new combo. I think I was running too much timing and got into some...

No part of the spark plug is missing. It actually looks really healthy just no gap. The ground strap has been pushed into the electrode.

I have bore scoped it and the piston didn't appear to have any part broken off. This is an exterior, belt driven procharger.

Hey guys, I'll give a little back story on my build then copy and paste what I had put in my thread on the Forced Induction Section. 71 Dart Street/Strip. 360 block bored .060 over with a 4 inch crank making it 414 cubic inches. Aluminum Indy T/A heads. This was built for boost so its right...

I'm guessing tune and converter. Timing? Air fuel ratios going down the track? Getting full throttle to carb? Cold air intake?

Cool video! Do you like the semi fenderwell headers? Getting ready to put a 360 into my wifes 65 barracuda. Do you know how big the primary tubes are? Much cutting involved?

I guess this is what I've been trying to say. If you can find a 5.9 magnum with around 100,000 miles (mine was 92,000), just do rings and bearings. If the heads aren't cracked then run them. This will be cheaper than building the 318. Best of Both worlds. I paid $300 for my entire magnum...

If you are like me you will always want more power. You'll get bored of that 300 horse 318 and wish you would have built a 400 horse magnum instead. My car came witH a hopped up 318 and I got bored and built the magnum

If you can't make 380 horse out of a junkyard 5.9 mag then you need to find another line of work.

What Rumblefish said! It is sooooo easy to get those horsepower numbers out of a junkyard magnum. I have a lot of threads about mine. Also, the magnumswaps website is great! He is also a member on here and helped me a lot. Not knocking LA engines, but at that power level its easy with a magnum.

Nope. Runs 180 in cool weather and 190 in hot summer stop and go traffic

Yes, I used fel pro 1008s on my 2001 magnum engine in the dart