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I'm still trying to figure out how you would go about rebuilding a carb to run with a bad fuel pump. I've been doing this for 40+ years and have never heard of such a procedure.

When I read the OP on this, I too guessed that the regulator might be at fault, but after reading 67Dart's reply, I realized that following the procedure that he outlined made a lot more sense. Doing so would have verified the condition of all the components and given the OP real insight into...

You should check the smog laws in your state before removing the EGR valve. With the valve removed and a block installed, their is no flow through the EGR jets in the manifold, unless the manifold is cracked. The reason that I suggest checking the EGR valve is that you said the problem came on...

It's in your picture just below the air cleaner, the the thing with the vacuum hose connected to the diaphragm. You'll need to unbolt it from the engine and check for carbon build up or a broken or missing disc. When you re-install it you'll need to replace the gasket. But re-check your vacuum...

The ammeter's antics could be due to the erratic idle.

Re-check for vacuum leaks and also check for a stuck open EGR valve. The reason I say to re-check is that on a car of that age a hose or other leak can develop at any time. Doesn't sound like an ignition problem, but a stuck float or dirt in the carb could cause your symptoms.

Every /6 I've ever seen had a threaded hole in the crank and a big block crank bolt fits (it's shorter than a small block bolt). It sure seems strange that it's seized if the cylinder wall look good and there was no water in the bores. I don't mean to question your diagnosis, but how did you...

Check for vacuum at the hose to the EGR when the engine is idling. There should be none. If there is vacuum, you will need to make sure that all of the vacuum hoses are connected properly and that the EGR is not connected directly to manifold vacuum. You will need a FSM or at least a Chilton's...

It sounds like you get to start your diagnostic procedure all over again; I believe that the only way the EGR valve could cause a rough idle, is if it were open at idle, which it's not supposed to be. When you pulled on the stem you opened the valve. Remove the valve and clean it to verify that...

You say that there is a hole in your brake line, which line, hydraulic or does the car have power brakes and you have ahole in the vacuum line to the booster?