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BTW the Accel wires are around $100 a set now.:wtf: I've had good luck with mine but my car isn't driven very much either. A mostly stock 318 won't need anything special or see any improvement with expensive wires IMO.

Same here, I've been running Accel wires in my 340 for over 10 years with no issues.

I agree with Sterling, no resistor. My MSD ignition box requires a power wire directly to the battery and resistor bypass. I think yours would require the same.

I don't see a voltage regulator either?

I got mine on amazon.

I have a spectra in mine. I noticed the same thing as you did. With a full tank you think you're getting great gas mileage. lol. Once it reads 1/4 tank I go and fill up because it's like playing Russian roulette. Great thread!

I have the same dash as you and took out the plastic delete between the turn signals and warning lights (your top picture). I found a tach to fit in there and mounted it in there. I used this tach. I don't have a photo of it mounted yet.

Cool, this thread is still going! Yeah moisture got into that connection turning it green. Here's Scotty showing us how to do it right. Rev up your engines! lol.

Yes I've seen it mostly done that way. I just used this website as reference: Acid Core VS Rosin Core Solder: Pros & Cons Discussed *edit* All that being said if you have professional grade crimping tools it's the easiest way to go. I'm good with either method if done properly.

Make sure to use resin core solder. My neighbor used acid core solder that is used for copper plumbing and other metals and ended up with lots of corrosion for his motorcycle battery. Don't be like my neighbor. I have been restoring antique radios from the 1920's and the soldered connections...

Looks like ACME already purchased the Shee-mar. I bought a Shee-mar for my '69 before I knew about Dan's switches *sigh*. It works okay but if it breaks I will contact Dan and I recommend his as well. They are the best quality of all the replacement switches.

From his website: For 1962-'63 and 1964-'69 A, B, & C-bodies (without tilt steering), plus some trucks and vans up through 1971. The OP can email him at the link to ask though. https://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

Get a wiring diagram for your car from here if you don't have one: Wiring – MyMopar Makes tracing electrical issues much easier. :)

John I'm pretty sure this is a link to the guy with the quality switches. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html

The last thing you will want to do is change out the turn signal switch. Most replacements on the market are junk (I found out the hard way). If you think it's the wrong switch there is a member here that sells quality switches and can most likely tell you if it's correct for your year. I'm not...

Lots of good info here. No power to start for me on different ocassions has been melted fusible link at the bulkhead causing an intermittent connection (bending the wire would allow start). Also after work at a mechanic no start was caused by loose neutral safety switch connector at the...

Just wondering. Have you found the alarm module it might have a switch installed on it or in the wiring. It's most likely on the driver side under the dash.

Beautiful Demon. What's not clear is if the button is a kill switch or alarm, or both. If it's a kill switch it probably looks like post #16. My MSD box has an option for a kill switch so you might want to look for a wire going into the car through the firewall or (depending where it's mounted)...

Yep I replied to my own problem without asking anybody. lol. Didn't have to wait for an answer that way. :lol:

Yep...lol.

You can easily test your electric choke for a short with an ohmmeter. Like was said earlier the choke should be connected to the ignition run wire.

I had an issue with my horn where the horn was always on. I had to unplug the horn in order for it to stop. I was thinking the horn button was shorted to ground keeping it on. Pushing the horn button we could hear the relay activating? Anyways we traced the horn hot wire to the bulkhead and...

Lots of good info in this thread. I looked at your video and that's quite a swing. I did all the tests mentioned here with mine and found my dash gauge to be inaccurate. However I did try a 12 volt fuel gauge hooked up to the sender and it was consistent and accurate. Mine is a problem when it...

Bad ground at the voltage regulator casing.

MSD 6AL too. Accel distributor, big improvement!

Glad to see you got it fixed!

Better link: http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedFiles/MSDIgnitioncom/Products/Ignitions/6420_instructions(1).pdf

Here is the diagram (top). Looks super easy setup. Agree something is definitely wrong if you went through three. I'm using a 6AL with no issues either.

I had a similar problem after installing repop tailights. In my case I had to bend the tailight socket clips for better ground contact to the tailight housing. The new bezels have a slightly larger hole where the the tailight clips in to them. That solved my issue.