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"By the numbers" the comp XE 256 almost looks like the "perfect" cam for a 318 that otherwise stock except for a 4 barrel and dual exhaust.

Those are fairly obvious observations. If you use 1967 pistons (and change nothing else) on an 8.8 engine, what is the new compression ratio? If you use 1986 pistons (and change nothing else) on an 8.8 engine, what is the new compression ratio? If you use 5.2 Magnum pistons (and change nothing...

I've often wondered what exactly the difference was in the 67-69 9.2:1 318 and the 84-ish to 91 9.2:1 318 to differentiate them from the 8.8:1 318's from 1970 to 1983. The piston part numbers are different, and the heads are different, but I've never been able to compile exactly what portion is...

Curious how the OP got to 9.2:1 in a 1973 engine. Did the Magnum heads do that? Were they shaved? Different pistons? Most of the sources I found a few years ago said .520 for max lift on Magnum heads.

Magnum engines also had coated piston skirts and moly rings. Both helped efficiency and durability.

Just a note that Magnum manifolds hit the top of a PS gear box. They clear a manual gear box, though.

Step 1- find alternate calendar Step 2- convince population of Earth to accept and use it. See? A simple 2 step process and you've got what you want.

Swap meet "Performer" intake- $100-$150 Swap meet 500-625 AFB carb- $100-$150 Local shop dual exhaust- $ depends on shop Stock Mopar electronic ignition if it doesn't already have it- about $150 Clutch fan if it doesn't have it- $varies but should be about $50 Good quality spark plugs and...

You will HATE a 3500 RPM converter on a street car with a small cam*. Have to say it again- HATE. *Unless you're one of a select few that enjoy it, and if you are before long you'll have a several grand or more into it and possibly be installing a 360/59/408, so it won't matter.

A 5.9 maybe?

Back to the OP. Again, compared to 2 barrel, and even 4 barrel "passenger car" engines like the 360, 383, and 400, the 340 is extremely rare. That should be fairly easy to see.

They are rare in part because they were not sold in the same quantity as the other two major US builders and also because unlike the gm 350 and ford 351 competitive engines, there was never a 2 barrel 340 offered as a non-performance engine, so in order to get a 340, it had to be in a...

Look how porous.

I'll save some time for a few of the usual suspects- Choice A- stock 318 cam Choice B- .650 lift (mild) cam with 4000 stall converter and 5.13 gears (...and zero torque until 3000 RPM) That's it. Pick one.

Again- 1967-1969 318- 9.2:1 compression advertised. 1984-1991 318 roller- 9.2:1 compression (and verified by an FABO member to be 9.18:1).

For the price of tearing into a 318, a low-ish mile (read 150,000) 5.x is, I maintain, a dollar for dollar, labor vs labor better deal for the hundred HP you gain while retaining good low end torque if using the magnum cam.

I don't think so, except jeep maybe. ..oh, you mean 318 outlets. Yeah, then. ...but then that is a factor of if you want the LA timing cover, then reuse. If you want the Magnum...DK if you rad is different- new rad then. magnumswaps dot com has a detailed list.

...but the problem is- 99% of those threads about "next step" upgrades for 318's end up just like this one, without actually spending any time on the topic. A- do nothing because nothing can be done. B- build for maximum HP at 7000 RPM and live with zero torque off idle. C- "just" buy a 340...

I've thrown many a magazine across the restroom in disgust when reading a "budget" build article, when I got to the part about "we had this cam and this differential laying around, so they were basically free". Well, out the window, then...

...and another 4K of parts they had "lying around" from another build.

Well, the 5.9 might have slightly less fitment issues than an RB in an A body. ...and as long as we're going down that road...might was well "just" buy a new Hellcat, right?

Uh, again if you can pony up a couple grand for heads...why not just get a running 5.9 and the associated 100 HP bump partially on account of the heads that come on that.

Let's also take that vid for what it is- a teaser to get people to watch their other content. That said, it does offer a good point that could be missed by the average Joe- identify the weaknesses and address them first.

So, again, the elephant in the room (or hyrax* as it were) is- What if I have good running, driving 318, and I don't intend to tear it down and have machine work done? * apparently the Hyrax is the closest living, non aquatic relative of the elephant! I see a potential drag car name.

From my experience, the reason people consider putting 360 heads on a 318 is... ...wait for it... ...because they are available. Lots of reasons for that. Perhaps a 360 blew up, or had other internal issues and the owner decided to sell the heads. That's just one.

Per the recent (highly contested) cheap 318 build thread- I'd love to see a "running engine" upgrade without machine work like decking the block or replacing pistons.

I'm gonna call a .480 lift cam pretty big for a "cheap" 318 build. I ran the Mopar 284/484 in my 9.5:1 383. and was told I should have used the next smaller by almost everyone. (which would have been the 280/480, IIRC)

OK, at 1:55 he doesn't clarify 150 NET HP vs 230 GROSS rating, but instead plays it like it's a huge difference. C'mon, man.

Only 45 seconds in but already I see the most expensive "upgrade" he's installed are those DC valve covers.

Why do these always turn into: A- don't do anything to a 318, because it's useless, unless.... B- change the heads, install a 4000 RPM converter, change the bore, install a .700 lift cam, and 5.13 gears.