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Maybe that's what the initial problem was- someone didn't have a torque wrench to fit in the slot. 45 sounds a little light to me....but if that's what the book says....unless it's an aftermarket part that came with different spec. That happens.

I'd be tempted to put it back in and tighten it to spec.

what brand is that one?

Don't know abut A body, but B body cars got that same joint/coupling starting in 1974. You can get that part in the "Help" section at most auto stores. Same as ford.

I've never had U bolt nuts back themselves off. Never even heard of it. Usually after a few months exposed to the elements, they form their own "lock tight".

Are we talking about the U bolts for the axle housing to the shock plates? I've never heard them called "U joint" or differential bolt. I've always just tightened them to the point to not having a discernible gap at the plate and just a smidge more.

That's the same argument for and against using 1973 and up B body spindles.

Some of them are 1/2" fine thread grade 8. Lowes, HD, Tractor Supply, RK...none of them stock that. ACE does.

ACE hardware has a lot of the hard to find, large size, odd shoulder, fine thread, grade 8 cad plated bolts.

Old rubber UCA's are creaking on one side of mine. The other side are new and don't creak.

I have always run my cars higher than stock in the rear and usually a bit lower than stock in the front. Never had issues with steering unless the alignment needed adjusted or had worn part(s). Also, raising the rear up to 3 inches and lowering the front an inch never seemed to mess with...

Actually, Mopar had the reputation "back in the day" of being the better handling cars of the "big three". -aside from common complaints of "too much power assist". My 70 Super Bee, pretty much stock except for 12" wide rear tires and radial front tires handled like a giant go-cart, and I...

Disagree to check the toe? That's like disagreeing to look for oncoming traffic before you pull out. (But some people don't)

Check the toe.

I ground the threads off a 1/4" by 3" bolt. It's a "perfect" fit and the bolt head is fairly easy to strike with a hammer.

I've never had any ill effects from setting them where I want them (within reason) in over 38 years. ...but you have to tell the alignment guy not to change it from where you have it.

Before spending a bunch of money- check the toe. Mine was almost 1/4" "out" and it felt like it was "sloppy". Set it to 5/16" "in" (almost factory) and it drives like the whole front end got rebuilt. $0 There are several ways to do it, but I built myself a sliding toe gauge from EMT...

...and I agree coil-overs are absolutely NOT "needed" or even IMO desirable. The torsion bar suspension was ahead of it's time and can even be adjusted and fine tuned. Coil-overs IMO ruin the "Mopar" factory feel of a well designed system.

OP is asking about front end parts. I'm more versed in B body stuff, but sometime between 73 and 74, B body front ends changed from thread in ball joints to press in. It's kinda hard to tell them apart sometimes, so be sure before you press one out, that's a fast way to ruin a control arm.

BTW 73 should be the same as 74. There may be a couple of things slightly different, but for the most part- same. IIRC The biggest differences will be drum brake vs disk brake stuff.

Check the toe.

I actually just bought my mom a digital one at walmart for $27. Surprisingly, it has a generic, replaceable chuck and standard hose ends and fittings. Most of the cheaper ones have "can't separate, or replace" hoses and/or chucks. I only used it on her mower tires and truck tires but it's WAY...

RE- the Joe's link- What good is a tire gauge that only goes to 30 psi?

My walmart Campbell Hausfeld has lasted 12 years. Looks just like HF but the psi numbers and graduations are big and on the outside (instead of the bar numbers on the outside on the HF), and the hose is still shiny and intact, unlike the HF that rotted after about 3 years and can't effectively...

...or a heavy truck repair place. The one near me used to make U bolts, had LH thread lug nuts and re-curved springs. ...all affordably.

Check the toe. My car wandered and the toe was 1/8" toe out. Set it to 5/16 (IIRC) toe in, and wandering went away.

Depends on what B body. I had a 66 Coronet 8 3/4 under my 73 Duster and used factory 15x6.5 rallye wheels, whatever that backspacing is. It did bring the rear wheels out even with the factory disk brake front wheels.

I've found that readily available Krylon "Tough Rust" semi-flat is almost dead on for the Mopar satin suspension and chassis color. I've painted over a factory frame rail on a truck that was partially exposed to weather, and you couldn't tell the new paint from the existing.

What's your toe in set at?

Bigblockdart.com used have a write-up disputing the Ehrenberg claims. They liked the F/M/J geometry as well, and had proof. I used to refer people to that but I think that site is either down, or in the process of a rebuild.