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I've found that there are some things that "the market" has dictated are the same price whether they are brand new on the shelf, old as hell and "classic", or moderately old and beat nearly to death but still usable. Large, heavy made fans Bench vices Shelving Just to name a few.

"Rule of thumb". For that super specialized and hard to find stuff maybe closer to 75% but I wouldn't go near 90.

Rule of thumb- add up the cost of the parts and then cut in half.

People will also want to know the lift and duration specs on the cam, or a MFG and part number.

That, sir...is what makes the world go 'round.

I have one friend who, whenever asked, says- "I get *** miles out a of a tank". While technically part of the equation, it's not the answer, especially since he never volunteers the size of the tank.

yep. Even some folks you think surely ought to.

A vacuum gauge doesn't hurt, either.

Most full size truck applications I've seen seem to be a wash between the 225 and the 318 on MPG. As noted earlier, the 318 is the win as there's more power.

How about a t-t to small block bell?

What does the coolant look like?

The "hyper pack" four barrel is the only factory high performance slant six package I'm aware of. 1962, IIRC.

Home made but cool. I'd like to see the whole car.

My 1980 has the same issue. Curious as to how much it might cost to re-braze.

The Australian ones I've seen have steering boxes that mount to the frame horn instead of the K frame. That gives more clearance in that area.

I've got a few extra 318's and a generator from a Coleman 6250 laying around.... ...but the slant would run forever (even with little or no oil) and be a lot easier to plumb the exhaust out.

I thought "upped compression" was not a good thing on a forced induction engine.

manual slant cars were fairly common right up until the early 1980's by then manual v8 cars were pretty darn rare

I don't see it mentioned, but they also made a 245 CID on the same platform, which is visually identical (AFAIK), and apparently much more common.

I highly recommend adding a trough on the bottom to catch any "goo" that might come out. I made an easy fabbed plate for mine with a simple 90* angle at the bottom, and it's already saved my fresh engine bay paint!

there's no 2x 2 bbl intakes available for a slant? what a missed opportunity. I'm not the biggest holley fan for street tuning, but a friend of mine swears by the "economizer" 390 4 bbl for all his 318 builds.

RWD bell housing and clutch for 2.2/2.5 is available from Dakota.

My brother is finishing up a 5.2 Starion build. Was not bad with respect to space, but some K member and exhaust fab work was required.

blower and turbo

IIRC later model magnum motors have a hex shank T fitting. Has an odd sloped top, and might take creative measures to remove/install, but they're cheap and all Mopar.

Thanks for saying that. Way too many times I see the first ting on the "desired" list is "...bored .30 over..." People need to check to see if it needs it. Why waste the time and money if it doesn't? It's not some kind of badge or anything.

I was happy to get $75 for the last one I had extra. I may have another one coming up, and it will have a 904 with it. Neither ran but both turn and have clean oil and coolant

I'm painting a 318 right now. I haven't done this in decades, but there are new products available. First I used Zep de-greaser and pressure washed as much grease as I could. Three times, and with the engine at different angles on the stand. Next I wire brushed as much rust as I could with a...

Thanks to all who have contributed. I'll report back when and if it finally runs.