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History has proved most A body guys, are very conservative (tight) and slow to pull the trigger to buy repop sheetmetal. I remember a few years ago AMD was running out of some Mopar metal and said they would not be repoping any more in the forseeable future. They soldout in days!

Graphic powder after you get it working normal.

AMD sucks for Mopar. Bean counters!!!! Glad you found something that works out plenty fine!!

I say dip to see what is bad, cut out bad and go!

I bet 95% of all the cars I have restored over the decades had rusted out metal under the battery tray. Just the nature of it all, battery acid, moisture trapped under the tray. I always cut out the rust and weld in a patch. It all gets epoxy primer and topcoat in the end. If you aren't a...

All I know is I usually cut out about 3-4 inches of rusted away metal below the battery tray!!! That hole was long gone!!! :poke:

Say "ArmourALL" to a body man and he will go NUTS!!!!!'' :poke: Most all above is good advice.

True. If you go to Southern polyurethane web site,for example, it will mention do not use their epoxy primer over any etch primer. That concerns their product but just be aware of issues that an always arise with any paint product! Epoxy primers claim to fame, is their abilty to stick so...

ome brands of self and epoxy primers do not live well together.

When it takes the glass man and his helper 30 minutes or more to get just the glass in and I have done all the rest and they have been doing this 30 odd years.....I ]call them to install that new glass I have $350 in!! :thumbsup:

The structural adhesive is what I was guessing even though I have no experience with it. Heat was my only concern. Look like cheaper than epoxy too.

I just am concerned about the heat from the engine as to bonding agent whatever I use.

20 ga mild steel plate (sheetmetal).

I have fabbed some MW and hemi scoops before for some of my builds. But, my latest kick is the long hood scoop for the 64 Fairlane R code 427 car. No I am just building me a toy not real! And NO 427 either! (Who hit the dark key!?) anway.. I want to reinforce the bottom side with a...

Ospho. Some of the gurus say spray a second coat after the Ospho was sat a day, , let it sit a few minutes and NOT dry then wash good with water ( maybe with a little soap) to NEUTRALIZE the Ospho. Some epoxy primers can react months later. I remember being told years ago epoxy primers can...

Vinyl tops became popular to give that "sort convertible top" look, make more $$$, and IF the car manu. did not prime/paint the roof, well that is NOT good! Especially a few decades later after it has sat outside for years.

OK damn I thought that was UT for a minute. I did not watch his entire vid. Yes vinegar attacks rust, slowly. Maybe great for a slow week long soak in a small vat for some things. Muratic acid kills rust, and you can also have NO metal left. I would NEVER use it myself but what do I know. I...

Here is my take on this. PLEASE!! ALWAYS read the tech sheet (always to be found in that co. info on the puter, NOT on the darn can) for all primers and paints you will be using. Chemistry varies from company to company. For instance the tech sheet for Southern Polyurethanes co. will tell...

ave never liker paint stripper and have not bought any for sure, after everyone says they changed to formula for the worse.

TCP Global Color Library??

Read the tech sheet for whatever primer you consider!

I seldon ever buy anything except projects, and usually virgins with NO repaints. I have found IF the OE paint/primer has not gone away from exposure of sun and time, and IF the primer is SO hard to DA off and IF there is not rust under that primer I have had great luck using that as base and...

I havn't used paint stripper in a decade or so, but everyone says he current stripper is pretty sorry.

I almost (almost) went ahead and bought a drum stripper but took awhile to get feedback, meantime I striped it down except roof and trunklid and hood with what I had. I will continue on working with what I have maybe. Who knows, maybe the Eagle will poop in my hand and I will get an extra...

Thats it!

T Thanks for the info. Those roll drums are not cheap so I wonder how long they last. Everything is relative though!!

Be sure the tank is not leaking at the sending unit and mayb the drip runs back toward the filler tube?? If it has been replacd and they usd the new lock ring it fits too loose and will leak at that gasket.

I would post a pic but I am not that good at the net. Not a flap disc. Google "drum sander" maybe. Thats what I call them.

Thats what ya call a "pole girl!"

We are headed to the city today and Thur. for doc appointments. HF stripper is on sale at about $125 IF you pay the bandits $35 for their "membership"! I have wondered awhile how well they work and if they eat those drums like a kid and M & Ms???? Amazing how well I have done with the $35...