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interesting

I was going to say lefty loosey

boy, you guys are on the dark side!

option 2

Here you go Rusty...Indy

Ok so now I have degree numbers to look at and know where it is at.....whoopie........it's timing....not brain surgery....drive the freaking thing

and you can have those with timing tape and a timing light also....so what's your point??

if it pings at WOT just back off a little on timing....not rocket science

or wait for the 4 pages of genius from this guy

just hook vacuum gauge up to manifold vacuum port.....turn distributor until highest vacuum level is achieved....may have to readjust curb idle if carbureted and go back and forth until your idle is set at proper rpm and highest vacuum level is achieved....done deal

nice covers

I don't think you are going to regrind that cam...as that higher lift is ground off the lobe already.....also the duration

....1 or 2 is for temp sender.....4 for vacuum to power brake booster

Yes I agree with TMM on the banana grooves....the more surface area of the rocker you can oil the better.......Is it necessary? probably not ....but doesn't hurt....it will only help with less wear.....cant hurt it in anyway

notch is always down (like you have it) on both driver and passenger side....but notch should be facing rear of engine on passenger side and to the front of the engine on the drivers side

again....as stated before in many other threads....this question should be a sticky as it comes up ALL the time!

the spring is part of the seal

yeah 50.00 to demonracer [SOLD] - 273 adjustable rockers

vacuum leak

well said

I wouldn't run them with anything over .500 lift...unless you buy the MP heavier stamped steel ones

this should be a sticky somewhere for as many times as this question gets asked

the whole article was a good read

Yeah, stick in plug hole and take a look at the exhaust valve...but either way I think the head has to come off to fix the valve/seat problem.....So I suggest doing the other set of heads you have and put them on if you don't want no "down time"

sure beats the old days of cutting new seats using a stone on a drill with a pilot shaft coming up through the guide to keep you centered....that is the way we used to do it in the 70s and 80s....then hand lap them in with lapping compound and the wooden dowel with the suction cups on the...

just curious...I assume you had the valve cover off at some time to confirm that you don't have a broken valve spring on the exhaust of #2

:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:

yes, take care of that finger first

Do the test that Rusty said now on #2 and see where the air is coming from...just make absolutely sure that both valves are closed on #2 when you check it

sounds like a ring problem on #6 and a valve not seating on #2.....