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Torsion bars go bad after time I had the same problem with my 74 duster. I put new torsion bars and new lower control arm bushings on it it’s been perfect ever since.

isn't that why you have to put a new upper mount between the factory rails? I've seen bolt in pieces and weld in for sale. I mean I put a piece of .120 wall moly tubing welded to moly u channel welded to the rails and bolt on brackets on the 8.75 with qa1 shocks. but this car does not see street...

I remember seeing that a while back didn't the diff lock up and rip the improperly welded back half out?

There are a lot of different kits out their. some bolt on some weld on for the upper mounts. The rest bolt or weld to the diff. You do NOT need to back half the car in any way shape or form.

Foreword and back is left to right when you are standing at the fender looking down at the box. Which is where you would be when working on it.:lol:

The mount with the two bolts will move left and right slightly. move it opposite the way the wheel is turning.. When I did it I loosened the two bolts slightly and started the motor and then moved it until the wheel stayed stationary. Works great now.

16 gage works good.

I was leaning toward PST. don't know why it just seems like a better unit.

ok so im replacing the front end on my 74 gold duster . Ive installed diskbrakes and am rebuilding the whole front end so now is the time to put a swaybar on her. so who makes the best quality and handling kit? It does not have one now.