Search results for query: *

Have you checked for any cold spots on the radiator with your temp gun? How close is the fan to the radiator? The only reason I found that made any sense when I too was looking at crossflow rads. was the tube length is generally longer so more time to get the water cooler. That would make sense...

What is the actual temp in degrees, that is the question. Your old stat was probably open all the time keeping it so low. I would bet you are now running right where you should be.

x2

That radiator should be replaced since you say it keeps springing a leak and it very well could be the reason for it overheating. Before changing it out thought I would fire it up for a bit and feel the rad. for any cold spots. Easiest low buck way I know to check for a blockage. You should...

I would fire it up and let it start to get warm then carefully feel the radiator in different spots all around. If one spot is much cooler than the rest then you know you will need a new radiator. Also while you are there use a chunk of cardboard to make sure the new fan clutch is pulling good.

A few things you can check without having to spend a dime. First, did you do any work to the car or change anything before this problem started? If not I would start by seeing if the gauge is reading correctly. All I do is get an old meat thermometer and put it in the coolant running the engine...

Looks right to me. If your questioning the accuracy of the gauge then just check it with a thermometer. Hell I have used a meat thermometer before.

http://www.classicautoair.com/MOPAR_OEM_Parts.html give these guys a call and see if they might have a kit for you.

Check your stat. It might not be opening up all the way.

how big and what cfm is the fan?

I was figuring if it had been sitting for a really long time then the oil could have been all gummed up. but if it has already been converted then it probably wasn't that long ago.

if it had been updated to a 134 setup i would say evac. it and put new oil in the compressor and recharge it, but since its probably still r12 that could cost a small fortune.

the first thing that comes to my mind is that piece that bumps the idle speed up when you turn the ac on. can't remember the name of it but that could be it. also the compressor clutch going out can do that too.

I say leave good enough alone. if you want to add one on the front as a backup thats fine but the hp benefit if your running a vicous fan isn't hardly anything.

I would put my money on that overflow hose sucking shut being the problem too. the motor is trying to suck the coolant back to the radiator as it cools down and the flimsy hose is colapsing. disconnect it like stated earlier, at the nipple on the radiator, and see what happens.

I would get a big sheet of paper and set it under the car. run the car for a bit then see where the drops are. could be a freeze plug or something easier (hopefully).

yeah put one of those thick heat barrier gaskets under the carb. the holley carbs are a little better for that reason as they don't have the fuel bowl sitting right on the hot manifold. I had the same issues with my edelbrock and the gasket fixed it. even though you have the adapter its aluminum...

the flex fan might be part of it but im also thinking you might have some fuel issues. do you have the thick gasket under the carb. and also look if any lines are close to a heat source.

A couple questions, what stat is in it now, how far is the fan from the rad., and what pump are you running.

check the later smaller t-stat style housing. late 70's if i remember they switched to a smaller chevy style stat and housing that used 5/16 bolts.

thats an odd one. sometimes if you bought individual plugs at a parts store and they where not paying attention you could have gotten one that was one size too small. we had a someone helping us with our inventory once put metric freeze plugs in with the standard ones. a couple things you could...

Ok, so the stat is working , you have a shroud and a clutch fan that works too. a few things i would check is the distance between the rad. and fan, if the motor is running lean, timing, and also feel for hot and cold spots on the radiator in case it is blocked up. even new radiators have been...

For sure the first thing I would do is ditch the 160 stat for a 180. also if your lower hose is sucking shut then you know you have a flow problem. the hose sucking shut tells you the pump is pushing the volume of coolant passed the stat, through the radiator but the radiator can't supply it...

i have a goodyear 60878 on mine. the radiator and hose i looked it up for was a '71 dart if i remember right. its pretty far left. if you need it even further over, like all the way to the edge of the radiator, let me know and i'll check tomorrow at work.

I would really like to keep the radiator i have and just add more cores but I don't really know if i trust some of my local shops. i think i might give a few guys in my area a call and see if they can recommend a shop then ill see how much. hopefully i can get it done without having a heart...

i know what your talking about with the 2 core radiator, i have one in my car. it doesn't get hot but i would feel a whole lot better if it were at least a 3 core. with the car running can you feel any cold spots on the radiator? a few guys on here have had new radiators plugged up.

Anyone running an aluminum radiator in their early -A-? i have seen a few from places like speedway and summit but am curious how well they fit and hold up. i am currently running a later pass. side pump with a stock 2 core radiator and it works ok but i want a little extra for those 100+ degree...

what degree stat are you running? also do you have a shroud? it sounds by the description like you either have an air flow issue because of it heating up when you are at slow speed or a stop or, possibly and, it could be the idle mixture is too lean. my 2 cents.

it takes 10 oz.

like said above check the heater core to make sure it is not plugged first. second you need to locate the blend door and see if it is switching between hot and cold air. the door is usually cable operated and it sits right next to the heater core. if the cable is missing or broken you can either...