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I have been using Permatex ultra-copper. It's a high temp gasket maker.

Either Dougs or TTI's need the crossmember notched to run dual exhaust. Also if you have a 904 the factory mini-starter from a later model dakota, ram series fits with the TTI's. I have a set on my '64.

You paid to have it done right, take it back and have them fix it.

I would do it this way if you don't want to modify the crossmember. Otherwise modify the crossmember and fit some duals with a muffler you like.

I wouldn't deal with Harold. WAAAAYYYYYY too many horror stories. I would stick with what you have until you can find a set of used spitfires, tti's (I currently have these on my car but am not to fond of how they fit), or dougs.

Something like one of these.

I like the idea Cracked came up with about using a rubber muffler hanger. If you can get one of those that has the bracket attached to it with the u-clamp then you could attach it in the wheelwell and leave a slight gap between the clamp and header. Then when you tighten it up it would pull up...

I have a feeling Hedman makes plenty of money to get things right! :thumleft:

True about the weight savings and tooling costs but what good are either to the customer if the parts breaks? You also got to wonder the profit margin on a set of headers. My TTI's where about 800 and if they had a flaw or broke like that when being used for there intended purpose I would be...

I have seen a few people have the same issues and gotta wonder why the companies don't use thicker wall tubing or at least sleeve the first few inches. Is there any way you could run a brace from the headers to say the bellhousing? I would think its an issue with that style of header and how far...

Someone really should start making these, I too would buy a set. I have TTI's now and can say that while they are a pain in the a$$ I'm glad I didn't have to deal with Harolds b.s.

I would just run them all the way back. I had a few cars that had turn downs right before the axle and they had that annoying drone at constant speed. it sucks. also like caveman said try out some sound insulation to keep the interior noise to a minimum.

Go to the early a section. 2 stickied threads with tons of pics.

A couple questions, are the two diameters the same size, are the flanges fixed or does one rotate and the other doesn't, also does the gasket cover all the way to the inside edge of the pipe

Exhaust prices are getting expensive these days. I have a friend who owns a local exhaust shop and I got my duals done all the way back with magnaflows for $300. Its great when you have friends with their own shops! If I didn't have this option I would for sure be welding up my own stuff.

they sell the starter blankets or what I did was just use header wrap around the starter. mine is just as close and I have been running it over a year now with no problems. it doesn't look like it would melt anything on yours but the restart after driving a while might suck without it, major...

I have used the upper ones quite a few times. make sure you get the good quality thick ones. the thinner cheap ones will sometimes tear at the ends when you tighten them down. never had problems with them leaking, just make sure the ends of the pipe are clean and burr free. use slip joints for...

I would have to say run the Spitfires from Harold. i have heard nothing but good about the fittment and quality. i have a set of the tti's in my 64 and all i can say is god help me if i ever have to remove them. PITFA!

i like it! it has a more meaty sound to it. i also know what your talking about with the bay area pricing issues. i recently picked up a welder and a couple other large tools so i dont have to deal with that crap as much.