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congrats its about time

good luck. If that doesnt work for you I know where you can get a good running 318 for $300. May be easier

deff a keeper

Big Block, Big Block !!!!!!!!! :evil: :evil: :twisted: :twisted:

sounds like me when I fired off my new motror and took it around the golf course with uncaped headers. I think Craig was just waiting for the cops to come drag us off to the jail house :lol: :lol:

until the first time you get on it and she sees 6500 and those pistons that you banged up come apart and then you have to go and get that 440.

OH I forgot sweet looking motor. i ran a comp double roller and the dots went at 12 and 6 :?: :?: :?: who knows :?: got my next build coming up a 383!!! she is going to be a compression monster adn be ready to blow down the house!!!!!!! 340 is going in the dart and 383 in the duster...

man if it wasnt in new york i would come and get it. Love to take them out in the pasture and getting rolling over. We put a roll bar in first ofcourse and hall *** turn it real hard and slam the breakes and try and roll them what a blast :D :D :D

Hope to get mine back today but it wont surprise me when it doesnt happen. i want to kill this tranny Guy.

well i can say the engine has a few hours on it now and NO LEAKS :cheers: maybe i did something right, just wish I could say the sam for my tranny guy. Lesson learned if you have an 833 and you walk into a tranny shop and they dont know what an 833 is from the start go somewhere else.

congrats

it should be no big deal. if it bolts on true you are good to go, Mine was to big and would not sit. i just had it cut down .010 at a time untill it set right.

you will get it, I dont know about a bull dawgs Axx but i know those windage trays can be a pain in the aXX. Once thats done the hard part is over setting the top half is not that bad. The only mager problem i had on the top half was that the intake hade to ceut .030 to sit right on my heads...

should run like a bat out of hell. I always liked the look of a 6 pack set up. I stayed with a single 4 and mine has more juice than you would believe.

just that black gasket sealant it comes in a small white bottle. they sell it at just about any auto parts store just brush it all along the chanel where the rear main seal goes in bothe the block and the cap and put the seal in. check to see and mock up your pan gasket because you may have to...

cool glad I could help, i used a machine flat table at the machine shop and some fine paper to take mine down to fit. those studs make it tough as hell but they are a pain in the butt until you get them straight. i think you have her beat now.

take a mallet and know the crank forward check the gap between the crank and the the thrust should be .006 - .008 then knock it back and check the other side should be the same .

between the the thrust bearing and the crank should be .006 or about there this is not a big a factor for an auto car but a big deal on a 4 speed carits how much play the crank in the thrust bearing.

this is from the ARP instructions, i can fax them to you if you want. this is for 1/2 diameter studs with 190,000 PSI Hand tighten studs only, Lock tight may be used but torq must be completed prior to the lock tight set up. With Moly lube 90LBS with 30 wt Motor oil 130LBS Be...

just run the studs in by had all the way and then use the moly lube on the nuts and washers. Make sure the washers are on right, then torque them down. i think I cant remember for sure but i think its torque to 90LBS for moly lube its higer if you use oil. Just check the arp spec

Im just waiting. I know the maide voyage is going to be disapointing, with oil leaks and such. She will go out for an housr and the come back in right on the jack stands for a good check to make sure nothing has gone a miss.

well one thing if you run that thing the way it is you will have to got to a 440 or another small block because that one will shot

If you say so, i wouldnt trust what you can see from the top. You may as well go ahead and pull the engine since you have it tore apart anyway and atleast refresh it with rings and bearings. it will cost you less in parts than that fuel cell . have the pistons checked by a machine shop then put...

did you take that thing apart and check it? how about the bottom half, or magnaflux the pistons? I am just going to throw this out and hope someone is telling you that " if you have damage on the lower half and you do get it fired up it is going to come apart." May not happen right when you fire...

it is best to do it with out the heads on and just have the rotating assembly , put it on an engine stand and mount the dial indicator on the fly wheel and spin it, and check the clearance any other way and its a major pain in the ***. The earlier the better. I mean you could buy the whole set...

dont bother buying until you dial indicate your bellhousing. Once you do that you can buy just the ones you need they are still about 14 buck a set but its better than buying the whole set. If you have never dial indicated a lakewood its a pain in the ***, I helped the guy at the machine shop...

so let us know when you have her running again. :D

good call advise is all ways welcome :D

sounds like good advice, I would go as fas a turning it over with the intake manifold off so you can watch the lifters, push rods and Rockers all in action prior to firing it up. Slow down take your time and for god sake invest some research time, look up what you intend to do in a book and go...

OK go for what you know, but just remeber I told you so :wink: