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well after all that took the car on highway about 25 miles good beating put on it 80 mph plus and never got hot. I pulled lower line to flush it when i got back no rust came out so i think i may have the problem licked. Im going to refill with coolant tonight and do a 50 or 60 miles highway...

yup thats why im using these hot days as test and tune on 2nd round of looking over the cooling system i noticed my second cap was not much better then the first so today i pulled the thermo was a 180 going to a 160 to see what happens can all ways go back to it bought a new cap 16pd pulled...

rad is junk some one did the old put a bad cap on to re leave pressure so rad is coming out tonight have to try and find some place trust worthy next week

went out to wipe it off again before i go to the cruise in i think i may have found my heat issue popped hood was doing a once over looked at the rad the cap its leaking slightly. the rad does not have a whole i can see and it was not pissing from any holes under pressure but i did have fluild...

never checked cap wasint leaking so i never thought of it thremo is new dont me notta thou but i can see the gauge move when its opens and closes 50/50 with some water wetter

no rubber between rad and core support still gotta track that one down thermo is 185 190 i think what ever was stock is what i got took rad to the shop during build had it pressure checked and cleaned i know its more like throwing money out the window vs getting any thing from a rad shop...

ill try to fig out how to post the graph i asked the guy to email the file sense i have no scanner will see what he does im going to head out now wipe car down check some bolts and go test drive i have a show for my buddys new auto parts store opens at 3 today ill get pics and heading to wood...

i restored 99 PERCENT of this car minus the freaking motor thats what i meant i built it not bought a done car and drive it to my job where i sit in a nice leather chair all day and say yea thats my car i probley have a good solid year of work every day in this car my story never went twisted...

really guys lets quit busting my balls ill just take the whole thing down god i was just giving a freaking example of what a 340 produces on a CHASSIS dyno im not selling some thing like a MOTOR and saying its this or that its all stated i do not know for 100 percent whats in there from what...

not sure what you mean by intake exhaust heat open i say heads are stock for a few reasons but with out a tear down i cant be sure #1 stock valve steam seals #2 had intake off ports look like my drive way lumpy and ruff so no porting done to them and valve steams look old like i would think...

sorry if i wasint detailed enuff for some one who may need specs that i cant answer what i can answer you are more the welcome to pm and ill let you know stock bore yes 10.5 pistons who knows not gonna pull the heads mild purple about a 500 lift i would guess x heads like the day they came...

im in utica over by the silver dome kinda cars all stock 323 gears i highway drive it and staying with them converter is coming they wanted to dyno with stock converter said readings are more actual and as far as timing who knows thats what they set it at after 4 pulls said it was the best...

this motor was in the car all ready and ran very good so i didnt see a point in tearing into to it so the internal parts are a pretty good guess been around alot of cars so u get the ideal of what your working with stock bore 10.5 mild purple cam x heads stock stock intake elc ing 750...

im just up mound at m59

sorry i replied walked away and was thinking the fitting you will need is NPT national pipe thread and it will be brass in less you order or can find stainless

i think its 1/2 i think go to hardware store ace or aco or what ever else home depot on hoover tell them you want a once again i think 1/2 inch male nippel >lol he said male nippel< i just had to replace one on my car 2 weeks ago your about 10 mins from me probley warren aint that big if you...

pulled a few plugs just to have a look whitish carb board color so burn should be pretty good also making condensation off the tail pipes i was told thats very good for a carbed car no sure if thats tru or not

just popped the cap rotor turns one way 1/2" or so then stops and returns so spring should be good rotor wont spin the other way but thats normal or motor would have to crank backwerds thru vacuum pump on the advance i watched that pull in and return when i released it one thing im not sure...

stock dizzy im gonna go check the springs and all that ill update soon on what i found and yes stock specs where so far off car didnt even want to run i found that 20 was about where it started to be happy now ill try and get a tape and go for it again to final tune i did get it to the...

no the motor was all ready in the car was just rebuilt before i got the car so didnt fig i would tear it down it ran pretty good before but it all ways had mood swings. after i bought it last summer i noticed it some time run like hell other times just lay over fig it was carb car had been...

cranked more timing in seems to be better tab only reads to 10 degrees im guessing im at like 25 lol if the increments are spaced the same further from zero u go then thats how i come up with 25 car is not spark knocking and still starting fine guess ill go try more lol also when try to...

balancer is good i set it at tdc #1 when i pulled the dizzy and it was at 0 on tab guess ill go warm here up and throw more timing in here

i have a mild built 340 10 1/2 motor stock carb elc ing med purp cam x heads stock intake not a crazy motor just nice mild car book says 5 degrees i set it to that ran like crap i went to 10 seems better but this car is a straight dog i think my wife's cavalier is faster lol ive done all i...

thanks man thats good news not commen latley cars been kicking my you know what

seems like all the kits for the clamps just say 340 318 440 no years on them if any one has a ideal of where i can get the hose let me know i tryed yahoo just typing in mopar hose mopar rubber lines few other things got no where

did mopar have a marked 3/8 hose for the brake booster and pcv valve or was it just black line with no markings i know my heater lines have penta stars and if they did have markings where can i get some and on another note i bought all the org style pinch type clamps and im having hell with...

i was told its a 68/9 340 rad and shroud thats what im running 68 340 steel wtr pump hiting on the very bottom of it no where else it will spin but it drags lightly against it pump and rad are all the same as oem struff no problems clearing the hoses and part numbers are listed trying to...

numbers i have are 2785 312 95511 bought from another member with rad said it was 69 340 well my rad is a 68 looks the same as the one i got from him. my issue is i got a new viscous clutch fan witch measures the same as stock fan i took off well i think its...

had noting but problems with champions ill let you know when i fire it i just went to auto parts and they gave me ngks only one listing there