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There’s no harm in adding a ground to the cluster, as you did. I did on mine, also. I also had a smoke issue occur once. Turned out I had a wire to my Stewart Warner temp gauge mounted to the bottom of the dash not fully insulated. It kissed the steel dash and caused some smoke.

What did you do with the wires going INTO and OUT OF the ammeter? Lots of current traveling thru those babies!

I’m fairly certain mine is body color. You can see the original body color under the flap. I also attached a pic of the original outside body color I found under the left turn signal indicator on the fender for comparison…

Yes sir. Used to be black but prior owner painted over them. To be factual, Bob, mine is a ‘66. Before this, I had a ‘64 and I remember them being black. (For this photo, I propped the right flap open just for reference.)

Mine are capped off with round plastic plugs.

Closer pic, hopefully better…

From my copy of February 1965 Hot Rod. You can barely see the crossmember uncovered.

My '66 already had an adjustable rod from the factory. During the conversion, I fine tuned the length, did not require a replacement. (FWIW, my car came with power brakes. I kept it power.)

Bob, aren’t those Layson’s stickers for window molding?

That's exactly what I did to my rocker moldings. They're also finned. Sprayed, then wiped the paint off the tops of the fins about halfway through the cure process.

True, my '64 had the cable remote.

I overhauled the front suspension at the same time, so it was a no-brainer for me. Bolted the 4-speed to the engine and bolted to the K-member, put the whole assembly on two cheapie HF wooden dollies, jacked up the front end of the car high enough to roll the assembly under the car, then rolled...

Wow! I'm not interested ... mine's good. But how much weight will this be saving, just curious?

Right you are, RRR, the 10" fits nicely. If you go to my earlier post, you can see the actual tape measure on the components that I probably didn't need to sell and it should help future owners with a clutch selection.

I bought my '66 and managed to drive it 10 miles home with a badly slipping clutch. Thinking I'll just replace the clutch and enjoy the Barracuda the way it is, I pulled the tranny, found the back freeze plugs leaking, and two two others on the side with crud seeping out. Long story short...

It's probably returnable if you don' like the color, don't chop it up, and reorder from the same company.

Here's the story about my 10 inch. (Peeps, get your brains out of the gutter, it's not THAT 10 inch!) :eek: https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/10”-a-body-clutch-like-new-free-to-a-good-home.533719/ As of today, I've been running the 10" clutch from Brewer's Performance described...

Dan's the man!

I assume you had the battery disconnected when you started this project? As old as that board is, it's possible by moving it around some of the connections or pins connected to the board cracked loose. Happened to me with my '66. Get a ohmmeter to check continuity of the connectors to the...

Do you have the original to recore? It's what I did, no leaks, keeps it under 200* on a warm day. I think I paid under $200 in the SF Bay Area. This was a few years ago, I imagine MN would be less expensive.

Stock height (See post #19). The slight rake you see is due to the torsion bars adjusted a little on the lower side.

Here you go, just took her out for a little spin this afternoon ...

Best pics I can offer you now. If I get the car out for a ride, I’ll shoot you better ones. Car has Firm Feel .940” bars in front and 215/65R15’s all around besides the rear Espo’s, stock Formula S bar in front, no rear bar, new 20:1 PST manual steering box. Corners nice enough for me in town...

My last two cents … when I bought my ‘66 Formula S, it had rear end sag. My assumption was the springs were worn and aged letting gravity taking its effect for 50+ years. I ordered my Espo springs as stock, not the +1 or +2. The replacement changed my car, giving it a slightly raked look...

273: Cool chart! Factory rated was 230 for a stock Commando as I recall, you're just passed that. You dyno'd a stock motor to get these numbers?

Sorry, here's a link to them... leaf-spring.htm

Suggest you contact Espo Springs and run by them what your goal is. They used to, hopefully still, sell de-arched springs to keep the back end ride height or lower the back end, which is what you want if you are trying to lower the center of gravity and make your car handle. Junkyardhero is...

Wow, I had a bright Orange ‘73 Manta Rallye in the early ‘80’s. I lowered it, put in a LSD I ordered from England, a fatter front sway bar, front air dam. That car was such a blast, wish I had it back today. You can’t find a Manta anywhere anymore. sorry for the hijack…

We don't know a few things: What you have in it ($$$), what you plan to do with it, condition of interior, suspension, etc.... I think if you like it and want to KEEP it, if you are in at $12-15K or less ALL IN, I say you're good. But if you plan to flip it, I'd stay under $7-8000. (FYI...

The Craigslist air cleaner I got was smaller than the original, measures 9” across. I got me a Wix 42055 which is slightly smaller in outside diameter (8 3/8” O.D.)and is slightly taller than the original (3 1/8” Tall). Not perfect but close enough to solve my problem.