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he wasn't comparing the same application for ball joints, one was thread-in while the other was press-in... on installing the new balljoints, the threads are already cut from the originals, thread in the new ones until they are as tight as makes you comfortable. if you need peace of mind then...

pull the PS gear box and the ps pump and brackets. put on the manual box and put on an adapter for your power steering column to hook up to the manual gear box. should probably get a new pitman arm to install while you are messing with it, and new tie rod ends if yours aren't pretty new.

you got a return shipping label and sent the box back already?

to followup, got the new box, installed it. much tighter than the other one. based on feel at the steering wheel this time, i never would've investigated further but since i was curious i did use my phone to take a video of the sector shaft again. there is a little movement still but i'm...

when i was adjusting the strut rods in my car, i dropped points to the ground from the torsion bar sockets and them from the centerline of the bolts in the lower ball joints. adjusted so that both sides were equal. i would measure from the same point on the crossmember to the front leaf spring...

is the car going to have a cage in it?

I put a 16:1 PST manual box on my 67 b-body. I had to pull it right back off because it had some slop in the sector shaft. I will say though, I was surprised how easy it was to turn the wheels in the garage standing still. Much easier than a PS box without the engine running. I could do a 1/4...

Atleast everything goes faster the second time. Got the box back off in 17 mins. Dropping it at ups today.

I got a bad box too. I got in touch with PST and I have a call tag for return, seems I'll have to ship it back to them and wait for them to assess the problem and either fix this box or send a different one. I bought this one in July of 2020 and just installed it the other night. Someone was...

i had the same problem on my car, pass side too (is that the side everyone tags the curbs with??), instead of replacing the Kmember, i used some spare 1/4" steel plate i had laying around and used a bolt and washers and nuts to pull the bent part back out. i think i pulled it out about 3/8" or...

dust boot aside, the ball joint is already fully pivoted to the max just to get it into the hole in the spindle. it's not right. try switching the upper arms side to side and see what it looks like. the comment about everything changing when it's at ride height is correct. it will change some...

i see the sticker says that upper control arm goes on the left side, but the angle that it kicks the upper ball joint towards the front makes me wonder if it actually goes on the right side...

you can level the rear with the torsion bar adjusters. maybe revisit the ride height setting in the front...

i installed mine initially without the torsion bars in, let the control arm drop naturally then lifted it up to where the ride height would be roughly, set the strut rod to the length that put the arm where i liked it fore/aft, no binding. then move the control arm up and down to make sure it...

perfect time to just buy some adjustable strut rods and move on...

can you post a pic of the lower control arm with the car at rest? might also be a good idea to measure the compressed length of your shock, and then measure the distance between the shock mounts with the car at rest..compare...

that's interesting. you said these two sets of springs are the exact same specs. so all the supporting springs are the same lengths on each and the arches are the same, the main leaf is thicker on the MP spring by almost 10% but it is actually weaker. crazy.

the point is, if the thickness of the main leaf is different then the spring rate is different. even better, if you have some old MP oval track springs, you can measure the main leaf and then the OP that mangled his newer MP springs can measure his main leaf and figure out if that has changed. I...

if you guys have calipers, maybe measure the width and thickness of the main leaf of the MP oval track springs and the AFCO springs.

is this a broken main leaf here?

^ prob hellwig

agreed on the adj struts, i installed them on my car because i had to fix a bent mounting location for the pass side strut rod. didn't want to pull it apart a third time after initially rebuilding the front end (the alignment specs were bad on the pass side, i could look at the front tire...

that LCA looks a little bent, but it's in the direction that should give you more caster... the K-member doesn't look deformed where the strut rod bushing seats does it? seems unlikely given the factory reinforcement in that area on that K...

is the front passenger side lower control arm on the bump stop??

On the pass side of the K-Member, where the strut rod bushing is...is that mounting surface in the K caved in slightly?? how do the tires center in the wheel well openings on each side? look at the tire to the front corner of the fender...

i think the front adjuster in the 12'oclock position and the rear all the way in like you have it is probably a good spot to get it to the alignment shop. make sure it is not too toed in as well, that will make it drive crazy.

if you rotate the control arm up so it's closer to what it would be at ride height, i think you can slide the pivot further into the k-member...

just make sure the bars are on the correct side. the orientation of that line doesn't matter.

how does the K-member look on the passenger side where the strut rod bushing is? compare it to the drivers side...

there was a thread on moparts about those strut rods, they were about 3/8" too long and also too large on the LCA side to actually bolt up to the arm... Mancini was informed though so I'm sure it will be corrected...maybe give them a call.