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early A? Does Dougs even make a header for it? Maybe the D450? Neither are cheap and both tend to be well built.

@wheelsport You have other issues, like ground hunting is my guess. My kit would have zero effect on the taillights and high beam indicator light. If the brightness intensifier kit was one of the low dollar chinese kits, the only similarities to my kits is it has relays. My kit takes into...

More likely to have vibration issues if you point the pinion down that far on a street driven deal. Those shim numbers give you a 5.1 to 5.6 down pinion, more than normal. My deal and the way a lot of people do it. Under power you want the pinion, which rolls up under power, to be parallel...

1.65 down

GE H6024NH is a great headlight. They are inexpensive and I suggest them when selling my headlight relay kits. The kit and lights make a HUGE difference in performance. A lot of relay kits out there suggest pulling power from a horrible spot on our mopars.

D453 won't fit a 63-66 dart... Nothing easy about a SB and headers on an early A

If you are trying to lay a bead on sheetmetal that's not a good approach. Not going to read through this. Get similar metal gauge, clean it well and practice. You have to find the balance which can be difficult on a tap style voltage setting machine. Lap joint should not be nearly as hard as...

Don't waste your money on extrude honing.

No sweat. Daniel Stern has some good info on his site. Here is the kit I build. Has some info. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=216514

Electricity loses voltage as it travels through wire. The larger gauge and shorter the wires, the more voltage at termination point. Relays allow for a shorter run in some cases. The biggest benefit is replacing the stock 16-18ga wire with 12ga wire. This provides more voltage at the...

GE Nighthawk 6024nh The relay kits I build work great for improving lighting performance.

How much water is going to be inside the connectors? I'd bet you introduce more water to the inside of the connectors drilling drain holes in them and driving in the rain than any condensation which may occur. Better deburr the inner edge too so there is no high spot. Spray the inside with...

I'm not a real big fan of 1 x 3 rect tubing for this. This is how I did mine. Got lazy and didn't fishplate at the torsion crossmember.

I used 2x2 .083 wall on the last car I did. .120 is overkill in most cases. .083 is more than enough for a daily driver

Look at your friends car. Same deal with an auto and changing gears may not have had as great an effect as it had being a manual. An auto trans car with 3.23's put more stress on the converter when accelerating than a 3.91 or higher numeric gear set. It will generally make a converter flash...

Comparing a 4 speed car with a change in gearing to an auto car isn't really valid. A 4 speed car has none of the fluid dynamics or torque multiplication a converter provides. It's strictly a mechanical multiplier.

DJV's car sure seemed to run OK with 3.23's and a tunnel rammed SB... Oh the converter made a world of difference. Spend the money on a good converter. If it's not a race car, get something that stalls in the 2500 range and flashes HARD to the high 3's, 3700-4000 range. It will drive like a...

There is usually a bolt that holds the adjustment plate on bottom of distributor. Might need to adjust that plate so you get the dist to swing in range you want.

Get the uppers and spindles out. Also grab the prop valve of the inside of drivers frame rail.

http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Header-TTI636A/63-66Abodyheaders.htm Try that. They have their warts as well. I know that headman makes a nice 63-66 fenderwell header for 63-66 cars and that's what I would run if you already have the fenders cut. Hedman 75109...

That tool Jomoper made works AWESOME and for $10 total, not expensive! I made one and it pulled the bushings out of some NASTY A-arms I had. One of the best $10 I ever spent.

I have a 77 LP custom. great stick or more like a log, Man is it heavy!!!

Gone, all of it...

From a 64 valiant Rear wheelhouses Inner fenders torsion bar crossmember front frame rails Possibly rear rails. I have that car I'm parting out and need to move the stuff, really don't want to scrap the stuff if there is an immediate need by someone. I don't normal deal with 63-66...

Should have the oil holes in block for shaft rocker oiling. Good block to start with as a baseline. You can use LA or magnum heads on it. You can save money by calling Tim at Bullet Cams if you want a hughes regrind... You are really limited on lift, duration and LSA of the cam when going...

Where they attach up top to the rad yoke, sometimes both the vert and horizontal areas, there is a bead weld on the bottom side. You'll have to grind it. Also where it attaches to the cowl up top, outer edge, another bead weld. Bust out the grinder.

F body stuff works fine Ehrenberg admitted he had never seen a failure of a BJ using the F body stuff and the stated overangulation. The bump steer isn't even an issue with the swap. Both those comments are more of a CYA because of legal issues in the magazine. I use nothing but F body stuff...

What are you running for suspension. Cal tracks? go about -4

PB here's a link to a mopar muscle article. Has some good info. http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/projectbuild/mopp_0706_rollcage_installation/index.html Cover the glass if it's good. Welding shops have special paper or use blankets. Joint fit is everything when doing this. Clamps...

Got to know backspace. If you have the wheels and tires, get them in the wells, leveled/centered and measure required overall length. Best way to do it and no mistakes. Minitubbed I assume