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If the Black wire is burned, find the reason why. Don't just hook up the things you got from me and run it.

Doing OK on recovering. Just slow and still not allowed to lift anything.

I don't have them anymore.

Disc brakes will work with a different set of Upper Control Arms or sleeves Dr Diff makes.

Change that FAST! You need to pass smog or something? Can the book, set it where the engine wants it and fix mechanical to hit your total number.

I scratched my head at that one. It's making huge gains in power feeding it timing and out of the blue they stop??? WTF!!! I do the same thing on the dyno, choose an indiscriminate point to just stop, cause that's good enough. LOL Those guys, especially the main black haired knuckle...

They had to paint that poor /6 to look like a cheap hooker. :)

If you advance the timing at idle and it picks up RPM, the engine wants the timing. Distributor will likely need to be altered to keep total timing at a reasonable level. Main jets have zero to do with your idle if the engine is tuned properly. Get the initial timing set properly FIRST...

Whatever you do, make sure you adjust the distributor so the engine gets the initial timing it wants.

This is what I did on my Dart.

72 /6 would be points. Yep, grab a plug with pigtails and go from there. I may have some electronic module plugs or I believe auto parts store should have them.

It's not too high of an idle speed generally speaking, it's throttle blades too far open to maintain a desired idle speed, usually in gear. The drop from park to ingear is likely higher than normal. Plenty of ways to tune a car, some better than others. I'm out.

Not enough initial timing!!!!

VIN decoder likely won't work on non US, canada spec cars.

73+ spool mount set up? All you need to pull is that one long engine mount bolt on each side.

Then why did our 360 pick up almost 2 MPH going from any 4150 based carb to a 1050 dominator? According to all the CFM calculators, the biggest 4150 based carbs were more than required, in fact, they were about 10% too big? Hmmmmm. It clearly did something for power. carry on.

The slip yoke will likely be different too.

There should be two bolts, one on the engine and bottom side of the dist housing,

Doesn't the bracket plate fasten to the slant distributor with a bolt. You can loosen that bolt and adjust the swing of the bracket slot that attaches to the engine. Time it where the engine wants it, not what the book says. It will run better. You might have to alter the mechanical advance...

That would be correct. The stock spec was arrived at including a number of factors which likely don't apply here.. Since you don't have any smog issues, set it where the engine wants using a vacuum gauge. You'll probably have to limit mechanical advance when you are done. The engine will...

How about starting with the basics. Timing is set at what?

Good to read you got it fixed. From what you wrote in the first post, it didn't appear to be getting any power to the coil at all in any key position. That's what I love about trying to diagnose stuff over the net. Stuff that normally takes 5 minutes to figure out, takes hours. At least...

Check what Redfastback said. The ballast doesn't do anything when the car is cranking, it's bypassed by the cranking start wire to the coil side of the ballast. My Dart does that every once in a while and it's always been the bulkhead connectors.

As mentioned, spark, fuel, compression My 2 cents, use/buy a test light before throwing money at parts that may not need replacing.

My suggestion. Take good pics of all the vacuum connections at the carb, then disconnect and plug ALL of them at the carb. This removes everything vacuum driven from the equation. See if the car runs as a stand alone. If it does, then you have a problem in the lines/equipment/parts beyond...