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Something else you can do. Build a shim set up for the back of your water pump and stabilizes the timing cover where that button will hit. The cover can deflect a bit, it's minimal but I've done something in the past to keep things solid. You can make it adjustable to dial in your walk...

Posting that should be a bannable offense around here. :lol: Dominic aka ThumperDart is a really good guy at tuning up an OOTB carb for all around performance.

pass side is not /6

@69GT To answer your question in a simple manner. If everything was machined correctly (cam/timing set), you line it up using the 0 dots. That should get you the 4* advance. It's best to verify the install. Back to your regularly schedule program of "War and Peace" answering of...

Yep, When max lift is covered by 6+ degrees, where is the true centerline. Then throw in assymetrical lobes... ugh. That's why I like the Find max lift, then get readings coming up to the top and down the backside at .050 before and after max lift. Makes the math easy. Add two numbers...

Indeed. Lined up dot to dot on new everything and the cam was around 10* retarded. Just run it. Nope. It's easy to verify and takes little time to do so. 1* off meh... more than that and start looking to move it, especially if retarded. JMO @carfreak6970 If the crank keyway isn't...

Why you want to mess up a perfectly good ball peen?

Some people will argue just to argue. Degreeing = cam relationship to crankshaft. The rest is meh... Have at it.

The angle is irrelevant if you are using the same reading on the dial indicator for opening and closing. If one reads 2 open and 40 close with it perfectly in line and the off angle one reads 1 and 39... it's still a 109CL The math doesn't care.

He's not building the space shuttle. You could take the rockers off and rig up the dial indicator on the tip of pushrod. That would get rid of your springs collapsing the lifters and get a good reading to do the math. How come women in new england were never happy when the revolutionary war...

@DionR He sold the Duster a while back.

JMO... The converter is the single most important component in the driveline of an auto car. Period. I've had 3500 hughes converters work really well (Brian from IMM mag build 408 in his duster, went 1.43 60') and was solid. If you have the 3K item and want to run what you have, do it. A...

it will run very different, especially down low.

67 model year = C440 IIRC

I don't recall if you just did dot to dot. If the numbers you posted are correct 116ish ICL on intake, another in a long line of examples to NEVER trust any markings on a cam/timing set when being installed. Always verify. It needs to be corrected without question based on your findings.

If you are going to measure at the retainer, use the same lift point on both sides if it's a symmetrical lobe. The math with work out the same. You can pick .050, .075, .050 off max lift, doesn't matter, the math will get you the centerline number. I won't bother moving anything for the 1* it...

It'll never run, not enough compression, cam too big, running a TR with 2 1050's, stock exhaust manifolds... should be good for 1000hp... :lol: Just build it and use what you got. :thumbsup:

If you go with the 484 cam make sure you get the 108LSA version and install it at 102 area... The bottom end will come back doing that. Unless something has changes, the MP cam line is HORRIBLY overpriced. There are a bunch of similar cams out there and you can trick an engine with installed...

If the engine is still in the car, get the timing set up correct. Will make a huge difference in how the car runs from bottom to top. THat cam love a TON of initial timing.Like 24-28* or more. I have the 508/108 in a 340 with a 2500 converter and it's a difficult tune up. Distributor is...

10/10/71

I have 10 and 14* bushing for MSD distributors if you want a curve in it.

It just does. Yes it's the cam specs and working on engines with that camshaft before. Leaner mixtures, which is what you want, require more timing to ignite. If you know that retarded timing may cause low vacuum signals why fight reality? You are not timing a stock engine at this point and...

Nowhere near enough base timing. Cam needs 18-22 is my guess. Vacuum will come up with more base timing. It should have 12-13" at 800-850 rpm without much issue Idle is low at 700 rpm too.

Those steel shim gaskets might really screw up the sealing surface or the heads. Steel on aluminum isn't a good combo. Copper coat isn't going to help that issue. I hope you didn't use the stuff in a tube.

Yes you can. Spring pressures are the issue. If this is with the XE268H, you should not have an issue with the hyd cam spring in most of those choices.

RPM will kill that intake everywhere. A 1" open spacer on the MP intake will likely run better than direct on top. Cutting the entire divider out, no. Milling 3/8-5/8" of it out, yep.

I'd call Lunati and see if they could help you out.

Just because the cam is on a tight lsa, doesn't mean it has to be huge. The comp XE on a tighter LSA would be something I'd consider. You could use it as is and install it at 102 if you wanted. It's not going to be making any steam above about 5K anyways with the heads/intake/manifolds, etc...

I'd suggest something cut on a 106-108 LSA and install it at 100 or so. You want to get the dynamic compression UP and installing it ahead will get that done. Similar to what the whiplash and comp thmper cams do. Ignition timing, primarily initial will play a BIG role in how the car performs...

Install Edelbrocks and make sure you have fuel octane to run them.