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I purchased mine thru YearOne made by M&H. Form fit and functions as the OEM one. All connectors were the correct ones and the length of the harness was perfect. Also, the correct gauge of wire were used too.

An extra small "black" negative cable goes to the nut plate at radiator support near the backside of the headlight.

Nice, glad it worked out for you.

I use the GE-168G (green) bulbs, they are 3cp I use the GE-168G (green) bulbs, they are 3cp. Same look as thread #27.

The back is where they place them between the springs and foam. Year One is very good to work with and they have a lot of history knowledge. If you do find it back there....BE CAREFUL it's fragile (rusty springs tend to stick to the paper).

Great Greg I did see that the harness is date sensitive that's why I asked about the door sticker. Too bad it was gone. Not sure why all valuable ID's were removed. I don't think there's any way to find out that info you need when all you have is a vin. Sometimes build sheets can be found above...

That's the one thing that always bothers me. I would hate to see mine go up in flames. I think after 46 years of ownership I would just cry like a baby if that ever happened. That's why I have a halon bottle with me. I replaced my engine compartment wiring due to the fact that it was exposed to...

It's too bad no build sheet or tag. Wonder what's the history behind it. Any idea?

So, no build sheet either? Whats your door decal show? MDH numbers. I found M&H harnesses to be pretty accurate.

Sounds like they're corroded in place. Remove the assembly and investigate. You might need new sockets.

I'm still running all my factory gauges with no issues for 48 years. Keep it factory, it's looks better in my opinion.

Nice to see you worked it out. I would still replace that old wiring under the dash. Just a small piece of security, hate to see it burn up on you.

If that was mine, I would replace it all with new harness. You never know who has been behind the dash doing god know what. You will be far better off with fresh wiring.

My '72 Chrysler parts manual shows some engines 318, 340, 400, and 440 came with electronic and w/o.

No problem, that's why this site is so valuable to all that need help with their rides.

Yes sir, post 2 covered it.

Internal regulator is inside the alternator. it uses 1 wire. External uses a box with a number of wires attached to it. This allows the removal of the external regulator for a cleaner look under the hood. What are you using? Do you already have an external voltage regulator mounted on the firewall?

Summit has the Powermaster 75191, single wire internal regulator that puts out 95 amps. I've had good luck with Powermaster so far.

Or, replace it with Dorman - Electrical Socket - 2-Wire Turn, Stop with Ground Tab. You can find them in any auto parts store.

Stock Mopar gauge is meant to receive a signal in a non-linear resistance format, providing your sending unit is OEM.

How did you make out?

Light switch rheostat might have developed some corrosion or a weak ground. Put some contact cleaner in the switch and rotate to clean contacts. If that doesn't cure it, look for grounding issues.

These are the ones I used for round terminal sockets: 8 PIECE MICRO BORE AND VALVE GUIDE BRUSH SET BRASS MBBS088 | Matco Tools

I used my brass micro bore brushes and electrical terminal cleaner. Prior to reinstalling the connector I used dielectric grease.

Sounds like its in the headlight switch

That's great!

If it's a Chrysler printed manual, my bet would be it's correct.

Here's what I've found: http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/tOCMP/wiring/5765wiring diagrams/Plymouth/MWire5765-318.jpg http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/tOCMP/wiring/5765wiring diagrams/Plymouth/MWire5765-319.jpg

Intermittent reading could be a bad ground. Be very careful about purchasing a new fuel sending unit. The aftermarket sending units are linear! OEM are non-linear, readings at the sending unit (with a good ground); 73 ohms at empty and 10 ohms at full. I would have the sending unit rebuilt...

Thanks for the input fishfly, I'll pass it along to him. He's looking for a plug n' play harness, wants to stick with OEM if at all possible.