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In need of a new prop valve (354 9947), 73 Duster, PS, PB Disc front.

You are correct in not knowing, the tech wasn't sure either. But they are returnable, of course on my dime.

I ordered a set from Classic Ind. and their site showed 76 and up. Their tech said it looks like a typo in the description, but show be good to go. We will see when they show up, made by OER.

No, just calipers from 73 thru 75 were only covering those years. Another caliper was for 76 and up. Wasn't sure if I could use the 76 calipers.

Can a '76 and up sliding caliper be used on a '73 Duster? What is the difference beyond the '75 year? I really appreciate any help you can provide.

I'm experiencing the same issue for years as if my power brakes aren't there. Rears are correctly adjusted and the pushrod was set using the abovementioned tool. The new master bled several times and Dewey rebuilt the booster. Still at a loss!

Happy to hear that everything worked out Cruze, Happy Motoring!

Cruze, sorry to hear about your troubles with Inline tube. Both fuel and brake lines were perfect with my order several years ago. I guess things have changed with their service.

Here's a pic before restoration of my bracket.

My 73 Duster has a bracket that runs from the rear of the booster to my inner fender.

Take a look at the rod length between the booster (if power brakes) and the MC. It should be a few thousand shorter.

I like to use anti seize on the pistons rather than coat the back of the pad.

When it comes to brakes DO NOT modify the system! I can't say it enough, carefully investigate everything. Have second pair of eyes with you while you operate the brakes to see if anything doesn't look right.

Roger that Mike, need magnifiers at every turn. Can't get up from a creeper anymore so I have to find someone with a lift. Tough to get old.

Sorry Mike, not familiar with the manual system.

Give me a little bit to get it for you. This rod is for a Midland-Ross booster.

As an aircraft mechanic I couldn't let my self adjust anything or add something that was never installed by the factory. I had to look at everything several times to figure out what had changed to cause the lights to stay on. BINGO! I remember seeing the rod facing downward. The teardrop rod...

Just noticed the the teardrop end of the pushrod was up. I think it should be facing downward. Correct?

Understood, I'm thinking it must be in the M/C for some reason it's not returning completely. That's why I have to pull back on the pedal for the lights to go out.

The push rod has been adjusted to .0020 clearance.

Thinking of doing that same thing, the old M/C was leaking into the booster, that's the reason for replacement. New parts from suppliers are always a crap shoot.

The switch has been a factory set for 48 years, if I pull the pedal back they go off. Always worked fine prior to M/C & booster replacement.

Purchased a DMBC 10 from Summit.

Sorry, doesn't sound like the correct solution

Just replaced the M/C and rebuilt booster (from Booster Dewey) and now brake light remain on until I pull the pedal back. The pushrod was set with .0020 clearance. Not sure why the pedal won't return normally, any thoughts?

I would suggest separating the MC from the booster and take a look at the booster. You just might have a leaking MC if you find fluid in the booster. Just a quick elimination of a leaking MC.

Booster Dewey does plating

Definitely plated from factory.

I have the tool to measure, just looking for the spec